Voron 2.4 350mm Fridge Light Switch

Just like a real fridge, this modified skirt and trigger block allows you to add a switch to the fridge door that turns on/off your enclosure lighting when the door is opened/closed.

The goal with this mod was to keep it as subtle as possible by mounting the switch into the front skirt, where the whole assembly is hidden at the bottom of the door and has direct wiring access to your electronics bay to keep everything tidy.

At this time, only the 350mm skirt is available. This mod works on Voron 2.4 350mm printers with the clicky clacky fridge door mod by tanaes.

You will need:

1x D2F-L microswitch (plus wiring)

3x M3 heat set inserts (for the new skirt piece)

2x M2x10 self-tapping screws

2x M3x8 SHCS

2x M3 T-nuts (roll-in or hammerhead, for roll-in be sure to face the longer ends facing away from each other)

Print and Assembly Instructions:

Print the skirt with the backside facing down as normal (refer to the last photo) using standard Voron print settings. Print the trigger block piece as oriented using standard Voron print settings. Insert the heat set inserts in the same places as the stock skirt.

AFTER soldering the wires to your D2F switch (NC is recommended, be sure to use heatshrink on your solder joints), insert it into the slot until it is flush. Note the small cutout in the print for the switch's lever arm that extends past the switch body to orient the switch properly.

Use the M2x10 self tapping screws to secure the switch into place. These do not need to be tight, you can easily strip the plastic holes by overtightening! If installed correctly, the lever arm should be flush with the face of the skirt when pressed.

Install the skirt, route your wiring appropriately inside your electronics bay, and plug in the switch to an available endstop header on your MCU (make sure you do NOT have a diag pin jumper installed for the header you are using). Make note of which pin you will be using for your config later on.

Install the roll-in M3 T nuts into bottom extrusion channel of your fridge door, or loosely assemble the two M3x8 SHCS and hammerhead T nuts into the trigger block and line up the trigger block piece to be centered in front of the switch at the bottom of the door frame. With the door closed and the screws still slightly loose, lightly push the trigger block against the switch to trigger it, then tighten down the screws to set the position of the trigger block.

Use the below example for your printer.cfg (make sure to replace the pin values with the ones you are using for your lighting and also enable the hardware pullup resistor ^ for the D2F switch to avoid a floating state).

Example Configuration:

The following example configuration will control the lighting based on the state of the door as well as the state of the printer (if a print file is active in virtual_sdcard). I prefer to have the lighting at 100% during a print, regardless if the door is open or closed. The example is based on wiring the D2F switch in a normally closed (NC) position.

NOTE: You may already have a [output_pin caselight] section in your config that controls your enclosure lighting. If this is (likely) the case, you should either rename [output_pin caselight] to [output_pin fridge_light] or replace everywhere in the config where it says fridge_light to correspond to the name of your LED output pin section.

Add to your printer.cfg:

[output_pin fridge_light]
pin: your_pin
pwm: true
shutdown_value: 0
value: 0.01
cycle_time: 0.01

[gcode_button fridge_door]
pin: ^your_pin
press_gcode:
    {% if printer["virtual_sdcard"].is_active %}
        SET_PIN PIN=fridge_light VALUE=1.0
    {% else %}
        SET_PIN PIN=fridge_light VALUE=0.01
    {% endif %}
release_gcode:
    SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=1.0

Add to your [gcode_macro PRINT_START]:

SET_PIN PIN=fridge_light VALUE=1.0

Add to your [gcode_macro PRINT_END]:

{% if printer["gcode_button fridge_door"].query == "RELEASED" %}
   SET_PIN PIN=fridge_light VALUE=1.0
{% else %}
   SET_PIN PIN=fridge_light VALUE=0.01
{% endif %}