February 10, 2026
Description
Note: I have included my OrcaSlicer project files for illustration of where support blockers were used. If you wish to use them to print from instead of just for seeing what I did, then, if you don't have the Klipper Mod installed on your AD5M printer, you will need to switch from my included print profile to your own main print profile. That switch may happen upon opening, if you don't have an existing printer profile with the same name as mine. The reason a switch is likely needed is because the “machine start G-code,” and the “machine end G-code” are different for the Klipper Mod than without it.
Heads-up:
As of late January, 2026, I added a newly remixed door hinge that repositions the door downward by 5mm to prevent any scraping against the touchscreen. In conjunction with that, you'll also want to print the new, remixed v2 HANDLE that has its latch moved upwards by 5mm to counterbalance this new hinge, so the handle will still latch properly. The new handle is included in this listing.
Q: I printed your enclosure and I can’t figure out how to install the filament sensor / spool holder. I’ve looked on YouTube for installation videos and still stuck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
A: Not long after the initial release of the Adventurer 5M, the manufacturer, Flashforge, switched from shipping the original bidirectional sensor to a unidirectional sensor, for which my remixes fully support both options. The switch to the unidirectional sensor meant that the sensor's input "jack" or "socket" for the wire, is now positioned closer to the bed (not closer to the back of the printer as before). There is enough excess wire that can be "fished" up out of the inside of the frame, and there is a pathway in my remixed design to get that excess wire to cover the distance to where it needs plugged in. It's like a groove.
Note that the printed part that has the sensor mounted to it, as shown in my remixes, has a special addition: a protrusion toward the side, with a screw hole in it. The backside (inner side) of that screw hole has a nut capture slot (M3). There were already some other M3 nut capture slots in that printed part, and this is an added one, just for my side-mounted spool holder designs. After I insert the nuts, I use a drop or two of CA glue to make sure they don't fall out. The side-mounted spool holder formerly would attach with only one screw; a replacement for the short M4 screw that holds the top of the rear, side, guard plate. My side-mounted spool holders all require that stock M4 screw to be replaced by a slightly longer one. But using only one screw was less than ideal. So I modified the sensor mount and my side-mounted spool holder remixes to have their own matching protrusions toward each other. It's made for an M3 screw into the captured M3 nut. That allows a second screw for securing them much better.
Note: This is all designed intentionally to be compatible with the enclosure kit sold by Flashforge, and the contents of their kit comprise the entire BOM for this project, except for the extra M3 nut and M3 screw, and the slightly longer M4 screw. Here's an affiliate link to the kit on Amazon, sold by the official Flashforge vendor listing: https://amzn.to/4ijsmRb — You can also order the enclosure from Aliexpress, probably cheaper, with slower delivery. Here's a link to Flashforge's wiki about their OG enclosure, upon which this is based, only this one has improvements saving time & plastic and having better features: https://wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowledge_corner/printer-mod-and-diy
And here is Flashforge's video on how to install the DIY enclosure. It helps a lot with understanding that can be applied to my remixes:
Q: “Is the original spool holder and sensor mount set compatible with this?”
A: No, but it is compatible with either of these four, or this one, and the older versions here, but the newer ones linked earlier are recommended.
If you are new to this enclosure concept, please read this real-life comment from someone who loved it, but found it late in their process! — comment by Lars @Lars_3624400:
“Life saver!! I didn't realize how much filament to OG risers use and had to buy a second spool halfway through the print. I don't know what I did wrong, but after printing all that, I realized the new screen holder did not work for me at all. Mounting the screen with four tiny magnets to the screws? Who designed that? That's when I did some research and discovered this amazing build. It uses a fraction of the filament, and allows the screen to stay securely mounted on the metal frame.
“What the description is missing however is that the OG filament spool holder won't work with the new risers, as the runout sensor sticks out too much. You have to also print one of the spool holder remixes that has the sensor mounted in a different direction and/or at a different angle. The one I picked also required a screw that wasn't included in the kit, so I had to buy a set of screws as well. Looking forward to using that in other projects!
“I so wish I had done more research before starting this project, that would have saved 1kg+ of plastic waste going to the landfill. :(“
Q: "I noticed the left front top riser of the enclosure has your ‘Design8Studio’ logo. Can I just download the one without the logo and replace it?"
A: Yes. One with no embossed letters is provided. You can just switch to it. In Orca Slicer you can right click on a part on the bed, and choose "replace with STL" and change out which part is being printed. Ideally the old and new will have same position on bed, but if the new comes in as moved, you can drag it back to where it needs to be. Also, if you are interested in embossing your own lettering, check out my video showing how it can be done right in Orca Slicer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqgFYqWjmBg
Tuesday, January 27, 2026 -uploaded tweaked version of the new v3 of the AD5M DIY Enclosure DoorHinge. In the new area added for aesthetics, a hinge "tooth" was missing. If you already downloaded and printed, there is no need to redo it. The missing tooth will not affect functionality. The number of hinge teeth present before this fix was already more hinge teeth than the original. Kudos to fellow Printables maker Алексей Елсуков for catching this during slicing.
Thursday, January 22, 2026 - added new v3 of the AD5M DIY Enclosure DoorHinge - remixed to be especially for MINIMAL enclosure and its remixes, because it moves the plexiglass front door downward by 5mm, to allow no collision with touchscreen without having to so do any surgery on the plexiglass - plus all the earlier v2 and v1 improvements: easier to separate, better door placement through left-right adjustability. NOTE: the .3MF file with the whole project still has v2, and the new v3 is added as a standalone .STL and standalone .3MF.
April 26, 2025 - added Fusion 360 file with this riser set, and a STEP file exported from the Fusion 360 file. Note: this was not designed in Fusion, but rather in SketchUp. I opened the SketchUp file in Fusion, which brings in meshes, and then I repaired the meshes, and converted them to solid bodies. The result is perhaps no better than if you imported the STL file meshes and converted them, but perhaps I saved you a step or two.
March 11, 2025 - added to the included OrcaSlicer files, a couple of support blockers that had been missed. The files affected were the two front top risers.
March 7, 2025 - initial upload, v1.1
As requested and recommended by fellow maker @BrianS_647095 …
I've already had to replace damaged ribbon cables on two of my three AD5M printers — both of them were ones with the original DIY enclosure, which requires the touch screen to be moved up off the metal frame, in a way that requires the detachment of the ribbon cable any time the riser set needs to be removed and put back. Each time the ribbon cable gets reinserted there is a chance of damage to it!
Anyone with a Flashforge Adventure 5m who has already done the DIY enclosure touted by Flashforge, and yet desires to retrofit to put the minimal enclosure “top riser assembly” onto their OG guard plates, to get the touch screen back onto the metal frame, allowing removal of the riser set without having to detach the touchscreen or its ribbon cable. Also means the camera cable does not have to be detached. And they want to do this without throwing away all of the OG enclosure — saving as much as possible.
If you have not yet done a DIY enclosure, and you want to do one, I highly recommend my remix of the Minimal DIY Enclosure — https://www.printables.com/model/1130485-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-minimal-diy-enclosur — consider doing that instead of this hybrid of the OG and the minimal. It uses less plastic and is more straightforward.
Can the ribbon cable really be damaged by removal and reconnecting? Sadly, yes. Below is a photo of the second of two of my ribbon cables that have been damaged. The first one was similar, only worse. I'm not sure if this is a case of a flawed batch in which there is not enough adhesion and these are easier to damage than they should be, or if all ribbon cables are this easy to damage. I've been very, very careful, and yet it happened yet again.
If your ribbon cable is damaged and your AD5M is still under warranty, then contact Flashforge's after-sales support and request a replacement. If your AD5M is not still under warranty, here's an Amazon affiliate link to a replacement ribbon cable: https://amzn.to/3FmceQK — although bear in mind you can probably find it for less money on Aliexpress if you can be patient with a longer delivery window.
Below: on the left is the retrofit, while on the right is the minimal enclosure (not a retrofit).
Below: two retrofits.
Here are some benefits and considerations of retrofitting the minimal enclosure top risers onto the original enclosure vertical guard plates and other parts:
Benefit:
It gets the touchscreen down and mounted onto the metal frame, like on a stock AD5M, which means that (unlike the original DIY enclosure) the new minimal top riser assembly can be removed for any work, and then reinstalled, all without having to detach the touchscreen, and that means not having to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable which can cause the tip of it to possibly become frayed and damaged, and without the headache of having to disconnect and reconnect the cable for the Flashforge camera.
Consider:
If you are using the Flashforge camera, then there are at least three different choices for routing the camera wires, each with less than ideal issues.
The way I chose was to route the camera wires from below, just at the edge of the door opening, and threaded behind the remixed “shield plate” part, which has a little groove on the back of it for this purpose. This way has the benefit of not pinching the wires. Its downside is the cable can be seen as shown below. In one of the pics, I had blacked out a white sleeve with a sharpie marker, while on the other, I had not yet done that.
Another option is to route the camera wires just like they were on the OG enclosure, up through the hole in the metal frame, and then back down to where the touchscreen is being mounted. This has the wires interfering with the attachment of the screen, and it can pinch the wires. It's doable, but I don't recommend it. Mounting the touchscreen on the metal frame with the camera cable added to the mix, puts a little additional pressure, and it can be fiddly — a bit of a challenge — to get the touchscreen mounted in place, and without pinching the camera cable. However, I was able to get one of mine mounted this way (on the minimal enclosure, not the retrofit).
A fellow maker on Printables actually performed a surgery to his touchscreen, using a soldering iron to melt two holes in it, to route his camera cable differently. Below is a link to his listing that shows it. I did not do that. It's an option. The downside is it makes the process more complicated and involved. It also could risk damage to the touchscreen. https://www.printables.com/model/1135562-full-width-front-shield-plate
Benefit:
The retrofit does save and reuse almost all of the printed vertical guard plate parts, with the exception of the A1 guard plate (near touch screen), which has to be replaced with a remixed new print. It also not only saves and reuses other remaining parts, such as the hinges, handles, magnetic button clips, etc. but all of those items and almost all of the guard plates do not need to be detached/reattached, and can remain in place untouched during the retrofit process.
Consider:
It is necessary to replace the original top riser assembly, and the original shielding plate (that goes across the top center front), which constitutes a discarding of plastic and a few tiny magnets. At least the reprinted new minimal top riser assembly requires very little plastic and it prints quicker.
Benefit:
The front door can stay closer to its original position, not having to be moved down by a full 5 mm, as happens with the minimal enclosure when it is done as a standalone instead of a retrofit. The screw holes in the front door (for the hinges) are actually slots that allow adjustment upward or downward. The door will definitely need adjusted all the way down, to prevent contact with the touch screen as it closes.
Consider:
If the door's built-in downward adjustability is not enough to prevent contact with the touch screen, new screw holes can be drilled just above each of the slots, and/or connected to lengthen the slots. This makes the process a bit more complex and involved. I had to do this on one of two retrofits. I used a 9/64" drill bit, but one could probably use 1/8" drill bit too. Also care must be taken to make sure that the touchscreen’s ribbon cable is tucked upwards behind the new full width shielding plate, so that the ribbon cable does not hang down in the path of the door. This is quite doable.
I widened ledge/lip that olds the lid, from 6mm to 11.25mm. This change was motivated based on real-life use of the previous enclosure designs, both original and minimal. It was a bit too easy for the lid to get down “past” the lip and fall down into the riser area. This wider lip helps with that.
Also, to help speed up the print time, I adjusted the angle of the portion that upholds the ledge that holds the lid, making it less steep of an overhang, by about 10 degrees (changed from 45 degree overhang to 35 degree overhang). The cost of this change in filament needed, is quite minimal. The table below illustrates the nice time benefit compared to the very minimal filament cost. In all instances, the part was sliced at 0.28 mm layer height on a 0.4mm nozzle, with infill at 10% adaptive cubic, and with 2 perimeter walls, and tree supports enabled. In case you're wondering how this change prints faster, it's because steeper overhangs get printed slower for added cooling that's needed. Here's the table:
| Before change | After change |
|
| Print time | Filament Used | Print time | Filament Used | Time saved | Extra Filament used |
Left Front Riser | 1h49m | 90.07g | 1h43m | 90.84g | 6 min. sooner | 0.77g more |
Left Rear | 1h42m | 79.02g | 1h36m | 79.76g | 7 min. sooner | 0.74g more |
Right Front Riser | 1h37m | 77.85g | 1h31m | 78.71g | 6 min. sooner | 0.86g more |
Right Rear Riser | 1h42m | 74.08g | 1h37m | 75.26g | 5 min. sooner | 1.18g more |
|
|
| Total time saved: 24 min. |
|
|
| Additional filament: 3.55g |
I added back in… the nubs on the top risers that have screw holes for (apparently) attaching an LED light bar sold by Flashforge. I use a different approach for my own adding of LEDs, so I cannot test these nubs for proper placement or usability, although I've set the distance between them to match exactly how the original DIY enclosure had them spaced. If you use this added feature, let me know in the comments how it goes for you.
In the A1 guard plate, I extended the opening (for the door to magnetically latch to the metal frame), by about 2mm downward. Reason: see below, in "Notes on assembly" in the second bullet point.
Up to this point, all the enclosures I've been aware of, both the OG DIY enclosure, and my remixes of it, including the minimal one, had some slop in the fit of the top riser section. It made the top super easy to install, but it left wide clearance gaps and cracks, and the whole riser assembly could be moved around on top of the printer. I never cared for that. I added 0.75mm onto each quarter of the riser set, resulting in the riser assembly being 1.5mm wider and longer, and now it fits like it always should have. The tighter fit is seen here:
In remixing the full width shield plate (kudos to @FlMtbSteve_2791710), I added a groove for routing camera cable from below, and added a new latching lip on the left side edge.
Shield plate: print as oriented (standing up, prints knife edge down). No supports required. Recommend 3 perimeter walls. See included OracSlicer prep file. Recommend printing this one with the door closed and lid in place, and the bed temp raised to 58 C, to prevent curling or lift.
A1 Guard plate: print as oriented (standing up). Supports are required but only for the bottom and the very top, so I used a big support blocker cube as shown here. I recommend normal supports as opposed to tree, for this. See included OracSlicer prep file.
New top riser set: print each as oriented. Supports are required but only for the bottom faces. I used support blockers to prevent unneeded supports elsewhere. I recommend tree supports for this. See included OracSlicer prep file.
Since the minimal enclosure riser set is shorter than the original, I cut a little bit off my PTFE tube to prevent it from scraping the plexiglas lid. If you have scraping, then start with cutting off a lesser amount, say 1cm, and only cut off more as needed based on testing. Compatibility with my AD5M Filament Cutter is dicey. However, if you find that when the filament cutter is in place that the tube scrapes the lid, it would be pretty easy to use the filament cutter for all the times when you don’t have the lid on, which is at the very least any time you’re printing with PLA, and then take the filament cutter out for any printing that requires the lid. It’s pretty “easy on, easy off.”
If the door is coming into contact with the touchscreen as it closes, you can lower the door a little bit, either by taking more advantage of the slot-shaped screw holes where the door is mounted to the hinges, or, if the door is already at the top of the slots at the hinges, then you can use a drill with either a 1/8" or a 9/64" drill bit, to drill new holes in the door, just above the existing slots, and you can even use the drill to connect the new holes to the existing slots, to make the slots longer. The opening in the A1 guard plate already has some leeway, but I added to it.
NOTE: this time I did not bother with magnets in the riser set. It has gravity, and a tighter fit. I see no reason for magnets!
If your camera cable seems too short for what you’re trying to do, you can squeeze a little more length out of it by using what I provide in this listing: https://www.printables.com/model/813334-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-printed-camera-mount
The rebuild order matters somewhat. I recommend this approach:
After printing all the needed parts, remove the touchscreen, and remove the OG riser assembly.
Remove the OG A1 guard plate (the front, right, upper one, nearest the touchscreen).
Remove the OG shield plate (the flat part at the top of the door opening).
If you are using the FF camera, choose your approach (see above), and position the wires as needed. In my case, this means taking the camera cable out of the hole in the top of the frame.
Install the newly printed replacement for the shield plate. It has a new latching lip on the left side edge. It has spots for two magnets, but I did not use them. I chose to add a bit of double-stick tape. First, insert the latching lip on the left side edge, under the B1 guard plate's edge. Then pivot the shield plate toward the frame, pressing in the nub on the left side first, then pressing in the nub on the right side. If double stick tape was used, press that area too.
Adjust the positioning of the ribbon, and prepare its folding pattern as needed.
If routing the camera cable up from below as I did, position the cable under the right side of the shield plate.
Install the ribbon cable onto the touch screen. Be careful to not damage it. :-)
Install the camera cable onto the touch screen, if needed.
Install the touch screen onto the metal frame.
Install the newly printed replacement for the A1 guard plate.
Loosen the front door's hinge screws, and slide the door as far down as the slots will allow. Retighten.
Check the door for clearance.
If the door is not clearing, remove it, and drill new screw holes, and/or lengthen the slots.
Reattach the door and check for clearance.
Install the newly printed replacement riser set, which is a custom remix of the minimal enclosure's set. First route the short PTFE tube (from the runout sensor) through the hole in the riser set. Then position the riser set and snap it into place.
Finally, if you are using one of my side mounted spool holder remixes, then route the short PTFE tube through the retainer slot in the spool holder.
Done!
Many thanks and kudos to fellow maker @BrianS_647095 who made a donation to me for this work and encouraged me to do it.
Speaking of which, if you'd like to send me a thank-you tip, my CashApp username is $douggjoseph and my Paypal link is: https://paypal.me/design8studio
If you have questions or run into issues, please let me know in the comments.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
7
Doug Joseph (design8studio)
