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Recreator Mk5 powered Filament spool switcher & Winder 3D Printer File Image 1
Recreator Mk5 powered Filament spool switcher & Winder 3D Printer File Image 2
Recreator Mk5 powered Filament spool switcher & Winder 3D Printer File Image 3
Recreator Mk5 powered Filament spool switcher & Winder 3D Printer File Image 4
Recreator Mk5 powered Filament spool switcher & Winder 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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Recreator Mk5 powered Filament spool switcher & Winder 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

Recreator Mk5 powered Filament spool switcher & Winder

Blissa Studios avatarBlissa Studios

August 15, 2025

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Description

update: I have included a pdf in the files to show assembly with renders to help make building this a bit more smooth. Some parts may have changed since I started putting this together. All uploaded parts are the most recent. 

Recreator Mk5 powered spool transfer device.

This build assumes you have, or intend to build a Recreator 3d Mk5. The page for that build can be found here. 

If you are going to build an Mk5 expressly for the purpose of using this spool transfer mod then you will not need to bother with the hotend, cooling fan, or filament guide parts of the build unless you want to have the ability to swap the parts out and do some PET1 filament pulling also. I highly recommend you look into that project and process though even if you don't as it is super cool. 

BE AWARE SOME OF THESE PARTS ARE TRICKY TO PRINT

Non-printed parts: 

Everything you'd need to build a recreator Mk5

6 POM wheels

Maybe some superglue

4mm X 5mm m3 threaded inserts (optional) 

4 - m3 X 6mm cap screws (optional)

 

Printing: 

I recommend printing these parts with the same settings as the original project except the gear axels. I printed mine at 100% infill because I wanted them as ROBUST as possible and they are quite small so they would be prone to breaking.  Orientation is important for the gear axles/shafts. If you print them vertically they will be likely to break at the layer lines during installation. I know it kinda sucks but I HIGHLY recommend printing them lengthwise with supports so that you can take advantage of the higher shear resistance of having the layers parallel to the length of the part. 

This remix was made for the Recreator 3D community so print in PET1 if you can, for no other reason than that's what we do, all these parts should work fine in PLA though if that's your prerogative. 

 

Assembly: 

STEP 1: build a Mk5 recreator base, all the way up to the installation of parts on top of the machine. 

STEP 3: Mount the spool winder base to the 2040 extrusion, using T-nuts and M5 screws. Push the winder base to the left side of the Mk5 before locking it down by tightening your screws.

STEP 2: Install the motor mount on the outermost track of the 2040 towards the back of the Mk 5 base with t-nuts, leave it a little loose for now. Screw the motor to the mount. Then press the drive shaft adapter into one of the small gears, minding the direction of the gear teeth. Refer to the photos for the correct orientation of the gears throughout the build.  

STEP 3: Insert Worm Gear Axel Part 1 (WGAP1) into the other small gear, mind the tooth orientation. Put the gear into position on the winder base and mesh the teeth with the drive gear. Place a POM wheel onto the shaft of worm gear axel part 1 and press the POM wheel into place on the winder base. The fit should be snug but not impossible to remove for all POM wheels in this project.

STEP 6: Carefully insert Worm Gear Axel Part 2 (WGAP2) through the winding mechanism from the opposite side, and onto the end of the WGAP1. There is only one orientation it should fit, and it shouldn't need super glue but if it is too loose you might want to put some. I would wait until you have fully assembled the re-spooler and tried it before deciding to use any glue. 

STEP 7: Slide the Worm gear over WGAP2 and off to the side for now.

STEP 4: Press the shaft of the second large gear into the gear being sure to mind the direction of the herringbone gears. Then place the gear into the location and mesh it with small gear. Place a Pom wheel onto the shaft of the gear and into the hole in the winder base.

STEP 8: Press Worm Gear Axel Part 3 (WGAP2) into a POM wheel and place the assembly into the hole on the left side of the winder base. Then, line up the sides of the hexagonal shaft of the worm gear axel assembly and slide the actual worm gear over them. Depending on your printer tolerances this may be a strong enough fit to work fine. If you have a super dialed-in or precise machine, you may need to use some superglue but don't glue it yet. 

STEP 9: Place two POM wheels into the vertical hole for them on the winder base. Press the axel for the slanted tooth gear onto the keyed portion of the shaft, place this assembly into the holes of the POM wheels, and move the worm gear until its center is in line with the center of the slanted tooth gear. Once this is in place you can glue your worm gear to your worm gear axel if you need to, be careful not to get any of the glue into the threads of the worm gear.

STEP 10:  Assemble the filament guide track (If you choose to use the optional m3 screws and threaded inserts to lock this part into place you should install your heat set inserts first.) Slide the rack gear into the track. Line up the hole in the center of the track part and the slot in the rack gear part with the hexagonal shaft of the slanted tooth gear axle and place the Rack-Track assembly onto the winder base. If you are using the screws you can now insert the screws into the track part to lock it down to the winder base. THE SCREW HEADS MUST BE FLUSH OR BELOW THE TRACK SURFACE. If they are not IT WILL NOT WORK. So make sure you use the right screws.

STEP 11: Once all the gears and parts have been installed onto the winder base you can slide the motor mount to the left until your gears mesh, then tighten the M4 screws so that the motor stays in place.

COMPLETE: That is it, the rest of the parts should go together the same way as the original. You will need to use the modified spool rod and nut on the actual winder because the tapers on the original didn't fit anymore after I updated this build to fit on the Mk5 base. The original donor spool mount and parts should fit but may be updated later to fit better. I just have the donor spool mounted on two points to the 2040 track using some T-nuts. 

 

If the assembly instructions haven't scared you away, good luck! Be sure to post a make of your build and let me know if you run into any problems with the modified parts.

If you find that I have left anything out of the instructions leave a comment and I will try to get it added to my instructions or parts list as soon as possible. Happy Re-spooling! 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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