July 6, 2026
Description
Just orient the piece to their flat sides. I put support blockers in the cutouts for alignment pegs/trusts. No reason other than not wanting to fight to get them out later. The mic end is really the only part that needs supports. The slots in the guard and spacer are to make sure the edge is in the right orientation.
Also, there are 2 switches included. A low profile and regular switch. Decided to do the low profile so you have an option to fill the space if you don't like the regular switch.
You'll need 3 alignment trusts and 4 guard pegs.
Nothing tricky with this. I align the models with the cavity side on the build plate, except for part 1. I recommend no more than 5% infill to keep the wight down a little if you want to have it in its “bat” mode. Though the threaded rod should also help a lot with that.
You'll notice that there is a thick and thin side on the square parts that stick out. It was a quick and simple way to make sure the parts a put together right. Technically there shouldn't be a way to do it wrong, but I like to make sure. Just look into the cutouts and make sure they line up.
You can either do skinny strips of foam on the top and bottoms of the sheath entrance, or do wider pieces on the sides. In testing, the star bit into the foam quite a bit and would cause it to bind after a while if the foam was on the sides.
Length of the sword: ~34 inches (~863.6 mm)
Length of the sheath: ~23 inches (~584.2 mm)
Length of sword in sheath: ~35 inches (~889 mm)
Overall, I made the blade ~2 inches longer than my Ninja Sword model. The actual props may be the same length, but it always felt a little longer in the show so that's what I went for. I'm also including STLs of the full models for scaling that should work for the figures. If not, then reach out and I can make the appropriate changes. The only caveat being that the regular switch is baked into that version.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
zAbso
