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2" FPV Drone Frame 3D Printer File Image 1
2" FPV Drone Frame 3D Printer File Image 2
2" FPV Drone Frame 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
2" FPV Drone Frame 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2

2" FPV Drone Frame

kaschberle avatarkaschberle

May 2, 2025

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Description

Experimental monocoque 2" FPV Drone frame. This is a work in progress, I might remove outdated models inbetween.

 

Current version features:

  • top battery mount
  • very crash resistant, depending on material (recommended: ASA, PCCF, mechanically similar filaments)
  • space for 2 25.5x25.5mm boards (FC and VTX), insertion possible from the bottom or the side
  • 6.6mm 3 hole motor mounts
  • open access to FC bottom ensures compatibility with different plug layouts, also allows easy access to resolder broken motor wires
  • antenna mounting option for CP video antenna (TrueRC Singularity recommended), cable tie
  • antenna mounting option for RC dipole antenna (cable tie)
  • Fits 14x14mm (Walksnail Lite) and 14x16mm (HDZero Nano V3) cameras in vibration-isolating mount, camera angle 0 to ~70 deg possible
  • capacitor mounting option,cable tie
  • slots to secure pigtail, cable tie

 

Printing recommendations:

  • I now print in PCCF, which outperforms ASA noticably in crashability and stiffness. Slightly heavier, frame comes in at ~12 g with optimized slicing
  • PPCF allows for ~10g weight with good enough stiffness, but is less robust

 

Assembly recommendations:

  • Insert camera first!
  • The camera mount works best with the HDZero Nano V3, insert whoop grommet in the frame holes, then slide the camera in from the rear and align with the holes. If you now screw in a M1.4x4 screw on each side (the screw head should sink into the grommet) the camera is held good enough to not flop around but is well isolated and can be adjusted in angle by hand
  • You likely have to redrill the motor mounting holes depending on your print settings
  • You can self thread metal M2-screws for the stack or tap the holes for PP screws (with a proper tab, not a screw!)
  • If you solder the motor wires, I recommend soldering them with the FC already in the frame to make it easier to judge the length. The large opening in the bottom of the fuselage will make this possible for most FCs
  • Leave some extra wire for the capacitor if you want to make your life easier
  • Insert the cable ties in the slots at the beginning, this saves you some fiddling around components
  • Fix the motor wires with fabric tape to the frame arms
  • Use the slots in the bottom of the fuselage to fix your pigtail to the frame, this massively reduces resonant vibration that the gyro sees (otherwise your battery lead+pigtail might induce a low frequency resonance)

License:

GNU General Public License v3.0

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