Centauri Carbon LED Riser Elegoo Using Screen Switch

Overview

After getting my printer a little over 2 weeks ago i set about looking for Riser that housed more lighting as the original is pointless/useless. 

After seeing lots of models, reading about them and then seeing the issue with the self adhesive strip failing due to the chamber temp, i decided designing my own.

I wanted it to work with the screen light switch, which if you use the plug listed below, it will.

Also this doesn't rely on the adhesive strip on the back of the LED strip to secure in place, in fact it isn't even required! So there are no issues of the LED's appearing on your build plate mid print.

I've designed it to look like part of the machine and using the same filament (Tinmorry PETG Metallic Space Grey) is a great colour match. I have also used a white PETG for the accent colours. Links below

Each part needs printing once apart from the LED Holder where you will need 8 pieces and the Peg where you will need 15 pieces.

Its designed to be slotted together using the Pegs and LED Holder so if you are having difficulty with these you may want to scale them slightly. I didn't need to though.

All parts fit on the build plate if you arrange them correctly (See ‘ALL PARTS’ File). You will need some support for the small overhangs, i used tree supports.

I tried uploading my original Gcode file but Printables didnt like it and came up with this error if anybody can help?

File contains unsupported code EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE NAME=Front_id_0_copy_0 CENTER=129.189,123.956 POLYGON=[[9. on line 407

Additional Parts Needed for full install:

24v LED Strip 8mm wide 1250mm (1.25Metre) in length - 1amp MAX

JST 2 - Pin XHB2.54 terminal - to plug into the PCB

2 core cable approx 1000mm (1 Metre)

Prep

Start by removing the power cable so that there is no power to the machine.

Remove the bottom and back panel.

Assembly

Follow the pictures to assemble all the printed parts taking note of the labeling on the pieces. 

Slide in the LED Strip starting from the cable exit point on the ‘Back Right’ corner. Be careful maneuvering the LEDs around the corners. 

Feed the cable through the cable exit hole and solder to the LED strip taking note of the polarity. Don't attach the PCB plug just yet otherwise the cable routing will be difficult.

It is not necessary but is a good idea to add a connector to the cable just next to the exit of the riser so that it can be completely removed if needed.

Cable routing

Now route the cable through the machine. Feed in through the PTFE tube entry and down to follow the large black cable (control cable for the print head). This is the hardest part and can be fiddly, it helps to shine a light from inside the chamber to see the route you need to take. 

Follow the rest of the wiring loom into the bottom of the machine.

Trim the cable to desired length.

Crimp or solder the terminals and plug to the end of the cable and plug into the unused socket on the PCB marked ‘Lights’ being careful to use the correct polarity.

Alternatively you can power the LED's from the main transformer using the 2 spare terminals - though this will mean the LED's are constantly on with the main power switch.

Make sure the cable is secured along the whole route so that it doesn't interfere with any moving parts.

Make sure you are running the latest firmware.

DISCLAIMER: You do this at your own risk and your own ability, i cannot be held responsible for any damage caused to you or your machine.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CMGF42YX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9SX4CC1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354357293562?var=623755806954