**UPDATED 6/25** Fixed and Upgrade Parts for SpaceX Mechazilla Launch Tower 1:144 scale

Some parts will also work with:

@Josefson_162880 SpaceX Starship and orbital launch tower 1:144 scale (He actually just uploaded MikeNotBrick's design)

@hulkbuild_267368 Starship Orbital Launch Integration Tower "Mechazilla"

@Anubiz3D SpaceX Starship Orbital Lauch Tower Mechazilla with GSE Tanks (Rescale my 1:144 scale parts to fit  his 1:200 scale model--scale factor of .72)

*******NEW PARTS ADDED 6/2025***********

1. I added a cable chain to the chopsticks assembly. When I was at a launch (IFT-7) I noticed it (see pictures). It works well and looks good, but only if you don't move the chopsticks. There isn't enough mass on the chain to make it bend naturally, so it won't work like a real cable chain. But I don't move my chopsticks, so it looks good. This assembly goes on the back left side of the tower when looking at the tower from the front where the OLM is. 
   
   Assembly:
   1. Print 3 cable chains. Glue the back of one cable chain segment to the long tab of another piece.
   2. Print 4 of the cablechainBackingConnectorWRetainer.stl. They are the connectors for the backing pieces. The post goes on the left and they point to the right.
   3. Print 4 cablechainBacking.stl. They go end to end with the tabs together. Glue a connector (above) to hold them together.
   4. Print the cablechainTopBottomBacking.stl. The narrow one is the top piece. Flip it over and glue the end tabs together. Align the right sides of the top tab and the piece below it. This piece is narrower because the left side will align with the QD arm mount. This moves the whole cable chain backing assembly a little to the left so the chopstick wheels won't hit it when moved.
      The other piece is the bottom backing. Flip it and glue the tabs together.
   5. Glue the backing to the tower. Align the top of the backing with the middle of the QD mount. Put drops of glue on the tower to the bottom of the backing.
   6. Gently fold the long tab of the connected cable chain 90* over the boxes of the chain. Glue the tab to the top of the chopstick carriage. The boxes of the chain should be facing to the right. I may add some small pieces to connect the chain to the chopsticks carriage later. 
   7. Grab the bottom of the chain and pull it up to the bottom of the QD arm mount. See where the cable chain will start to double back on itself and gently start to bend 3 or 4 links of the chain there. This puts the “J” in the chain.
   8. Glue the end of the chain to the left side of the QD arm mount.
       
2. I added the antenna on the top of the tower. If you are printing this new, the top piece of the tower (NewTopSegmentTop.stl) has a hole to insert the antenna. If you are adding this after printing, there's a little mounting box that glues to the center of the top piece and has a hole for the antenna (see pictures).

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I was printing MikeNotBrick's excellent Mechazilla design (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5908857), but had issues with a few things and redesigned some things to make the build easier. My parts fix some of his parts, but does not include all the parts needed. You still have to download his files for some parts. MINE ARE NAMED THE SAME AS HIS BUT HAVE THE WORD “NEW” AT THE FRONT OF THE FILE NAME. I also put the number of each part to print with each part in the “Files” section. If I don't have the part, then use his.

The biggest problem I had was the posts on the top of the tower parts kept breaking off. I made all of the round holes square. I removed the connection posts and made rectangular prisms as connector links. They can be printed horizontally so the stress when assembling the tower is perpendicular to the plane of the layers. Simply put, they won't break. And if the holes print a little small, it is easy to sand the links until they fit.

The spool mechanism for securing the string that raises and lowers the chopsticks was hard to assemble. I widened the gap to make it easier to slide the cable spool-stop. I also removed the posts that supported the cable spool shaft. One broke off my print when I was trying to remove the stuck spool-stop. I made them so they could be printed horizontally, which increases their strength. I also redid the shaft and gears so that they could be printed separately. This also made them stronger.

The posts that connect the Quick Disconnect Arm to the mounting bracket snapped off (stress parallel to the layers). Those parts took nearly 20 hours to print and a ridiculous amount of organic support, so there was not a chance in, well, you know, that I was going to reprint those pieces. Instead, I designed glue on replacement parts with posts. I figured that a few add-on parts that take away a tiny bit from the realism of the model was an acceptable tradeoff.

Then, as I was putting the stabilizer arms on the QD Arm, another post snapped off. So, I designed a replacement part for the two posts on the front. I had to use nippers to cut the rest of that bracket off so I could glue the new part on (See the last picture).