Ender 3 HeroMe Auto-bed leveling

This is just a simple remix with minor enhancements. I found this method to be the most reliable and yet cheapest solution for auto-bed leveling in the Ender-3.

The M48 command on Marlin (probe repeat-ability test) gives the following results: Mean: -0.009839 Min: -0.011 Max: -0.009 Range: 0.002 Standard Deviation: 0.000756 (this is on a stock ender-3 hardware with an skr1.3 mainboard)

Here are some of the quick notes and tips that should help:

1. Use the https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3991855 from Beegeemon to print the base and duct. print both with 'Support only to build-plate' enabled. (NOT everywhere)
2. Follow the excellent build instructions from Roboscar here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2841443. Including the software changes. Note that some of the lines are different in Marlin 2.0. (but should be easy to figure out the equivalents)
3. I used the PIN29 mod on the stock Ender 3 board to get this working. Its easier to turn the board over and solder a wire to the bottom of the board (Thanks to someone on reddit for pointing that out)
4. Use a spare USB cable, for the 4 core flexible wire... and perfectly color-coded for this mod!. brilliant idea.(I dont remember who it came from, definitely not me!)
5. You could use the setup tutorials about "Bltouch + Ender3" (especially from TeachingTech on Youtube) to get general idea of the mod and setup. (ignore the bltouch specific parts!!!)

UPDATE: use Base_v2 (with cable clamp).STL to get a M3 size cable clamp. useful for cable management if you use the USB cable for the mod.

Use the clamp file is updated (v2.4) this makes a 1mm gap between the part cooling duct and the probe-base. Some people suggested that the vibration from the fans can affect probing accuracy.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

**Rafts:**

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

**Resolution:**

0.2

Infill:

**Filament:** Generic PLA silver

Notes:

Post-Printing =============

The hole in the guide is purposely left small. It needs to be finished with an 2mm drill bit (actually 1.98mm). This makes the surface inside the guide smooth.

I use a piece of tempered metal wire (1.85mm). The easiest source for this kind of wire is from a spare bicycle spoke. (approx 37mm). The metal wire helps to deploy the probe better (gravity!!!!)

You will need two M3x15 screws to mount the optical-sensor+base to the clamp.

Category: 3D Printer Parts