April 14, 2026
Description
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Please like this, download and post the make if you built it
It helps us makers with feedback and gets us some Prusa meters as most people don't pay it forwardFeel free to help my projects continue https://ko-fi.com/gcodegearhead
############################################################################ Intro###########################################################################
I found there is not much space to work with outside the bed of the SV08 especially if you have a cable chain. So I have been designing this to be able to use a modified Blobifier design (remixed from Jager_F who remixed Dendrowen) and combined it with a remixed ooze pad and brush setup (remixed from Valerie Moore and Ioannis Giannakas) and then make a poop shoot that fits snugly into the base.
You poop onto the blobifier and then it drops into the chute and disappears.
This is not a beginner mod, you need to add a Rpi Pico, and modify the base of the printer for the chute. (And massage the poop chute into position)
No buckets though and you can add a tray or funnel straight into the bin if you like.
Pair this with my MMU
https://www.printables.com/model/1314513-low-rider-mmu-for-any-klipper-printer
You can pair this with my spool holder
https://www.printables.com/model/1193075-4-5-spool-filament-dispenser-sv08-coprint-config-t
Here is a calibration test for tuning
https://www.printables.com/model/1322272-mmu-orca-flush-volume-test
This is a DIY project with multiple interfacing parts which move in close proximity to each other.
The quality of this project is strongly dependent on the accuracy of your printer, quality of your prints, and how well you clean them up.############################################################################ Updates ###########################################################################
14-APR-2026 | Updated a catcher to ensure any stringy blobs will always fall within the chute. Print out of TPU. Press into hole with some spots of superglue |
23-OCT-2025 | Updated a new chute with steeper angle. Requires feet with minimum 35mm under printer clearance |
############################################################################ BOM###########################################################################
Parts | Qty | Info |
Rpi Pico | 1 | You will need to flash this with klipper |
M2x6mm SHCS | 2 | For Pico mount |
M2x8mm SHCS | 1 | SG90 CAM to Purge Arm |
M3x10mm SHCS | 2 | Ooze Arm to bracket |
M3x20mm | 2 | Bracket to 2020 mount |
M3 Nuts | 2 | Bracket to 2020 mount |
M5 x 8mm SHCS | 1 | For the Rev2 Chute |
Servo SG90 or MG90 | 1 |
|
Heat set inserts (M3) | 3 | use the STD M3 OD5 L5 |
Aluminium or some heat sink | 1 | 2mm thick cut to fit arm |
High temp Silicone | A/R | Used to fill ooze arm, use as required |
Bambu Silicone pad | 1 | Can use any silicone wiper that fits |
M4x20mm | 1 | Mount to 2020 Profile |
M4 t nut | 1 | Mount to 2020 Profile |
HVAC Aluminium self adhesive tape | A/R | Put wherever hot stuff touches printed parts |
2mm Drill Bit | 1 | Drilling out oval chute hole |
Dremel , Files, Blades | A/R | Will make modifying printer base easier |
############################################################################ Print Settings ###########################################################################
PETG
Chute , print on triangle face use supports.
Blobifier main Body Cover
Blobifier Main Body, use supports
Blobifier Mount, use supports
Ooze Brush Arm
Ooze Brush 2020 Mount
Drill Guide
ASA
Ooze Brush base
Purge Blob Arm
CAM
############################################################################ Assembly###########################################################################
Print the files in the Ooze Brush Folder |
Pipe the RTV silicone into the hole in the brush base 24hours before.
Use a knife to cut off excess
Assemble the heat inserts into the arm with the 10mm screws and the 20mm screws go into the 2020 mount with nuts.
Mount the arm and adjust the pad height so that the nozzle sits on the pad.
Print the files in the Blobifier Folder |
Assemble the SG90 into the Main Body with the two mounting screws that come with it.
Install the CAM with the servo at 180 deg. Use the screw provided with the servo.
You will need to flex the Purge blob arm whilst inserting it
Slide the Bed mount in place and check everything moves freely. Candle wax is your friend.
Secure the cam to the Purge blob arm but do not tighten down, it needs to slide.
Press fit mount it on the bed as follows, its a tight fit. (Note cover is not shown and new model has screw mounts)
Poop Chute
Print the files in the Chute Folder |
This is where you will need to be patient and precise. |
There is a steeper chute which I recommend, it means you don't have to cut the triangle out the side of the printer.
It uses 1xM5 by 8mm bolt and a t-slot nut. The install isn't the easiest but very doable.
Remove the plastic in the side of the printer as per below.
You will want this to be a clean cut, ensure the walls are parallel to the triangle pattern. This is the main fixation of the chute so you want it to be tight.
Place the drill guide on the corner of the printer.
This is a tight fit and you need to push it on and hold it on the side of the printer bed tightly while drilling. Use the 2mm drill bit to drill through the guide and through the printer base. Yes the holes are smaller so you drill both and keep the tolerances tight.
Use the cutters / larger drill bit and the files to remove the inner piece.
There are two internal ribs you also need to cut back.
No feed the chute in under neath the printer and massage it into place.
It sits approx. 5mm into the printer side as just below the top oval hole you made.
This will take some effort as it is a tight fit so that it stays in place. It is also why you should have printed it in PETG so it can flex.
Insert the top cap into the hole and into the chute
############################################################################ Programming & Final Notes###########################################################################
You will need to flash the pico with klipper. (one of the many guides https://modkam.ru/2024/11/10/sovol-sv08-dopolnitelnyj-kontroller/ )
I named it mmu pico
This is how to call the pin for the servo on GPIO 1 pin: pico:gpio1. Wire the servo power to the main power supply and then the signal to GPIO pin1. Make sure to ground both the servo and the pico to the power supply ground.
In order to get your coordinates, home your printer and then QGL.
Manually move the print head with the controls in Mainsail and note down the positions.
I am using Blobifier with Happy Hare.
https://github.com/moggieuk/Happy-Hare/wiki/Addon-Feature-Setup#---blobifier
https://github.com/moggieuk/Happy-Hare/wiki/Toolchange-Movement
Here are my coordinates to get you started, make sure you check yours!
Ooze pad =====> X20 Y361
Blob Pad =====> X51 Y361
If you not using Happy Hare here are stand alone macros in the linked remixes, and I urge you to go and read and see what's applicable to you.
Feel free to help my projects continue https://ko-fi.com/gcodegearhead
Enjoy, and as always post anything I have missed in comments or messages and I'll fix them.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
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