January 28, 2026
Description
Update! Through popular demand, I have made some slight modifications to the model to make it printable by X/P/A series of BambuLab printers, and have uploaded the corresponding 3mfs! You should print the original ones if you can, but if you don't have a tall enough printer, you can use these instead. They're the exact same as the other profiles, but the two parts that were slightly longer than 250mm (the handle and the SheathBody3) were cut down using the in-slicer settings to make them fit. You're just going to need to glue them on without any pins or pegs to keep them together, but they're not structural parts, so it should be fine.
Apparently, although the advertised build height is 256mm, due to z hop settings, etc, it's effectively a bit less than that. If you wanna tinker around to try to print the un-modified version on your existing A/P/X series printer, here's the wiki page walking you through it: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/print-volume-limitations
Update Number 2!
The lovely BenjaminCucumberPatch has remixed the model to have a center threaded rod to increase strength and rigidity. This also allows the crossguard to be printed on its side, since it no longer serves as a structural piece. Do be aware, though, that this doesn't include all the pieces, so you'll have to download both it and mine in order to get the full assembly.
This is a Royal Broadsword/Royal Guard’s Sword (they’re pallet-swaps of each other) from The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild and its spinoffs/sequels. I used the original model as a base, but completely remodeled it in an effort to remove all of the polygonal edges, and to make it look more realistic and less like it was pulled directly out of a video game. I also modeled physical designs that normally could only be seen as part of the texture on the model in-game, such as the patterns on the blade and sheath.
This model as shown requires zero painting; all separate colors are separate filaments.
As for instructions, I highly recommend checking out the video below to see how to put it together, and to use the 3mfs for printing. All the information here is said and shown in more detail in the video, so you can skip everything here if you plan on watching it. If you can’t or don’t want to watch it, read on!
There are two 3mf files; one for the Royal Broadsword, one for the Royal Guard’s Sword. They’re exactly the same with the exception of the coloring of all the parts.
Speaking of coloring, here's what I used, in order that they are listed in the 3MFs:
Royal Broadsword:
BambuLab Basic Jade White PLA (Blade)
BambuLab Basic Gold PLA (Crossguard, Pommel, Sheath Gilding, etc)
BambuLab Basic Bronze PLA (Small parts on handle)
BambuLab Basic Indigo Purple PLA (Sheath, I used some generic brand for the handle)
BambuLab Basic Silver PLA (Small Parts on handle, sword design)
BambuLab Basic Blue Grey PLA (Blade Core)
BambuLab Basic Black PLA (Emblem)
Royal Guard's Sword:
BambuLab Basic Jade White PLA (pins; any color will do)
BambuLab Matte Dark Blue PLA (Blade, Sheath, Crossguard, etc)
BambuLab Matte Plum PLA (BladeCore design, sheath design, etc)
BambuLab Basic Silver PLA (Small Parts on handle)
BambuLab Basic Blue Grey PLA (Blade Core, emblem base)
If you don’t want to use the 3mfs, I have some advice for you here. The assembly instructions are included after.
There are a couple things to keep in mind when you print, though.
There’s a loopy body called DONOTUSEStringCord. …Don’t print it. It’s used as a guide for tying a rope to the Sheath, should you want to.
Given that the Handle’s colors are all contained within their own layers, I turned off the purge tower for that one.
I printed the Emblems with a 0.2 mm nozzle for detail. They didn’t need a prime tower either.
Essentially everything is either printed with a 20% infill for strength (handle, pegs, sheath, crossguard, Bladecore1) or 5% infill to be light (everything else).
Use supports
It mostly can be printed with a single extruder, with the exception of the Bladecores and the Sheath parts. You can separate the Bladecores and glue them on if you wish, but you’d need to repaint the pattern onto the sheath if you don’t want to print it in multicolor. The Handle and Emblems can be printed with filament changes.
The SheathGildingEntrance is a bit tall and unwieldy. It’s printed with a wide brim or potentially more supports around the base so it doesn’t fall over during printing.
The SheathGuidlingLongTop/Bottom were printed on their sides and with supports so as to avoid extreme stair-stepping.
I recommend you print the Blade Design last so you can just keep it on your build plate and pull it off piece by piece and glue it in place immediately. It’s easy to lose and hard to figure out which pieces go where if you don’t.
As far as assembly goes:
You’ll need glue. You can probably get away with superglue everywhere, but I used an epoxy resin to glue the sheath parts together as well as the handle for extra strength.
If you want to tie a rope to the Sheath like the real thing, you’ll need about 70cm of 5mm diameter red rope. The DONOTUSESheathCord indicates how it should be tied to the Sheath; you can use the Assembly Mode to see exactly how it works.
Generally speaking, the long Pegs are used in the core of the Blade, and the small Pegs are used in the Sheath. All Pegs that look to be a similar size are the exact same, so you don’t need to worry about losing track of which is which.
Along those lines, if I’ve done my job correctly, all the pieces should be symmetrical, so it should be pretty difficult to mess up, as long as you have a general idea of which piece should go where. For example, the BladeCore pieces can be physically inserted in any order and orientation, but it will be really obvious you’ve messed up, as the pieces won’t be exactly flush together. The BladeCore2 is exactly symmetrical any way you can insert it, so it’s impossible to put in wrong.
With the Sheath’s End Decoration, make sure you insert the Top and Bottom into the MainBody before you glue the Tip on. Be careful! There are some small-necked parts there, and they’re easy to break! You may have to do some finagling, and if you mess up… Well, you have glue, so it shouldn’t be too catastrophic.
Overall, just compare your progress with the exploded view I’ve posted in the images, and you’ll be fine.
Overall, this took quite the amount of effort and a significant amount of filament! If you enjoy what I’ve made here, consider giving it a boost and/or sharing it with your friends! Every bit helps get me that much closer to being able to do this sort of thing full time.
Of course, if you have any questions, lemme know, and I’d love to see you post pictures!
About Royal Broadswords and Royal Guard's Swords:
Assembly video:
How to tie the rope:
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
CarlThePumpkinMan
