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CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Image 1
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Image 2
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Image 3
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Image 4
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Image 5
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Image 6
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Image 7
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6
CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 7

CUB - Compact Arcade Stick (Semi-Modular)

RAF avatarRAF

September 4, 2025

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Description

As always, I'm open to suggestions.  Feel free to drop requests in the comments!  And, if you would like to support my work, please visit my Ko-fi!  - RAF

= OnShape Document =

  • 0.2 - Most current version

Any provided OnShape links are to my working documents, are the most updated version of the project, and may differ from the files uploaded here.
 

= Future Changes =

  • Acrylic Art Panel
    • Currently planning to use 2mm acrylic stacked on a 4mm FDM Panel.
       

= Change Log =

  • JULY 2025
    • Added thru-holes in endcaps for panel screws that extend past the HSI
    • Slight decrease to the depth of the counterbore of the button holes to increase panel thickness to 3mm
    • Added photos to assembly guide
    • Added WASD + 8 panel
    • Increased panel screw hole diameter to 5mm for improved fit
    • Added Leverless panel
       



= Introduction =

CUB.  I created this mini arcade stick for my niece to use.  And I wanted to try a different way of joining the arcade stick together.

BUTTON PANELS.  There are 3 options: 6 buttons, 8 buttons, and WASD w/ 8 buttons.  They are not directly based on existing layouts, but inevitably ended up looking more or less like the Sega2P layout.  However, my layouts will support the bigger size of the Sanwa screw-in buttons.  The joystick mount is made for a Sanwa JLF mounting plate – I cannot guarantee that other joysticks will fit.  Of note, is that the WASD layout is designed for use with this PCB from AllFightSticks.

AUX BUTTONS.  There are x4 24mm holes on the side of the case.  You can put them on either side, but it probably makes the most sense to put them on the right.  Recommend plugging unused holes with my Screw-in Plugs.
 

= Printing Suggestions =

Optimized for a 220mm x 220mm x 250mm build volume.  Be warned, the full enclosure will require about 1/2 spool of filament!  Ensure your printer & slicer are well-tuned before attempting this project!

  • BODY
    • 4 Walls / 30% Cubic Infill / No Supports / Brim Recommended
    • Only tested in PLA, but PETG should be fine
    • Highly recommend post-processing with a deburring tool for the two end-caps and FRONT and BACK faces on the build plate
       
  • BUTTON PANELS / BOTTOM
    • 4 Walls / 30% Cubic Infill / No Supports / No Brim
    • Tested in PLA
    • The flat part of the panels should face the build plate
       

= Materials Needed =

  • x16 M4 Heatset Inserts
  • x8 M4x10mm Countersunk Screws (for panels)
  • x8 M4x30mm Furniture Bolts (for endcap piecs)
  • x4 M3 Heatset Inserts (+2 if using for Neutrik)
  • x4 M3x6mm Countersunk Screws (+2 if using for Neutrik)
  • Arcade Stick PCB (GP2040-CE Advanced Breakout Board or Brook)
  • Arcade Stick Buttons and Joystick (ideally Sanwa JLF)
  • Neutrik NAUSB
  • Soldering Iron
  • Deburring Tool (Optional, but highly recommended)
     

= Assembly =

  1. PLAN & PRINT
    - Decide what panel layouts you would like to use.
    - After finalizing your decisions, print out all of the parts.
     
  2. INSTALL HEAT SET INSERTS (HSIs)
    - HSIs are installed via soldering iron – this will require a steady hand.  Install HSIs as straight as possible into the hole.
    - Recommend watching some YouTube videos on HSI installation if this is your first time.  I like to insert until the final 1-2mm, then I use a flat metal object to push it flush with the hole and allow it to cool.

    - The FRONT requires x8 M4 HSIs. 4 align with the top and bottom panel screw holes, and 4 align with the LEFT and RIGHT pieces.

    - The BACK is the same as the FRONT.  Optionally, there are x2 M3 HSIs for the Neutrik.

    - The BOTTOM takes x4 M3 HSIs for the PCB mount


      
  3. ASSEMBLE FRAME
    - Insert the LEFT/RIGHT pieces into the FRONT/BACK pieces.
    - When you are confident they fit well, fasten x8 M4x30 furniture bolts to join all of the parts together.

     
     
  4. INSTALL PANELS AND HARDWARE
    - If you made it this far, then it's the home stretch!
    - Install your controller hardware and the wire everything up.  If it makes it easier, install the hardware into the top panel first and then connect your harness to the PCB and screw it down.
    - It will be tight, but everything should fit.  Recommend angling your wires toward the joystick.
    - Ensure all screws are fully tightened, and you're good to go!


     

Happy Printing!

RAF

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution

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