Standalone Non-Modular Meanwell PSU Cover with 12V/24V Socket for USB Charger

This is a remix of the non-modular variant of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3375023 by vzero1, also posted as a remix there.  If vzero1 posts the original here I'd be happy to tag directly as a remix here.

I'm keeping the license as "attribution", but really I mean that vzero1's original should be attributed. I don't consider this remix to be significant enough to deserve any attribution for this remix in particular, but figured I'd post it since it might save someone else time.

This is for holding an LRS-350-12 or I suppose maybe an LRS-350-24, with a 12V/24V socket.  A “locking” 12V/24V socket can be a good idea if your car plug can lock successfully.

When I printed the vzero1 non-modular variant for standalone use, I found the back wall was a little fragile as-printed (snapped in half on me while I was trying to remove internal support material), so I made that back wall a tad thicker. I also figured it'd make sense to extend one of the interior faces down at ~45 degrees to avoid needing the internal support material, so I did that too.  I also centered the power inlet screw holes which were slightly too far to the left in the original.

The re-print with those changes worked great and is holding a power supply powering a couple raspberry pi 4(s) via an Anker car charger, with a car audio capacitor (16V cap with 24V surge run at ~13.7-ish V after one diode drop from 14V), a power resistor (for avoiding inrush when charging the big cap), and some diodes (no back-feeding cap to supply, no bypassing resistor for cap charging) set up to be a sort of pseudo low-runtime UPS just for the raspberry pis for (very) easily surviving my main UPS's questionable handling of under-volts coming in from the utility sometimes / generator glitches.  Yes, this is substantial overkill for this application, but I was “done” dealing with my raspberry pi rebooting and messing up my print(s) despite my running around switching to backup power the moment utility power dropped.  Printing long prints in the winter around here when the wind is dropping branches/trees on power lines can be extra fun...  In case you're considering a similar low-runtime pseudo-UPS idea, make sure you calculate the ongoing power dissipation of the non-backfeed diode in your usage and make sure the diode can really handle that continuously inside an enclosure, since that diode can see significant current with diode voltage drop implying significant power dissipation requirement.  Also, for a couple raspberry pis, obviously a smaller supply would likely also work great, but I was just very “done” with having octopi reboot problems.

I'm using this standalone (well, with the big cap sitting behind it), but I'd recommend some degree of support in standalone usage, like a zip tie to something sturdy, since it can be a little bit top-heavy/tippy without that. Also, if you're planning to cram a bunch of stuff in there in addition to a 12V socket and power inlet, you might want to remix further to add more space inside before you print; a 20W power resistor + 2 big 15A diodes was already a very tight fit on top of the default stuff; and of course be super careful to avoid shorting anything to any of the AC input conductors including all of hot, neutral, ground.  Also, don't forget to include space for appropriate fuses just in case.

In case anyone is curious, I did the tweaks in blender with some vertex/face editing, then used PrusaSlicer to repair the damage with netfab since that was way easier than getting the quick editing to be a perfect manifold, then re-exported as STL to mostly hide my questionable editing "technique". If you look closely I'm sure there's some leftover evidence of my questionable mesh editing, but at least it shouldn't complain about mesh errors. :-)