May 10, 2026
Description
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The alignment of the magnet and encoder is the most critical factor for the mechanical precision of the steering wheel's force feedback. Any deviations will cause a loss of synchronization between the rotor and stator, leading to jamming, vibrations, skipped steps, or random rotations. According to the encoder datasheets, the maximum allowable axial offset is only 0.3 mm. While the air gap has a wide tolerance (0.5 - 3.0 mm), the nominal air gap between the magnet and encoder should be set to 1 mm.
This mount is designed for 17x15 mm form factor magnetic encoders (e.g., MT6835 or MT6701) and 6x2 mm or 10x3 mm diametrically magnetized magnets.
The hoverboard axle requires an 8 mm diameter axial through-bore, and the rotor (motor case) requires a 24 mm diameter hole.
Version Selection:
Standard (Split) Version: Designed to work even if the through-bore in the axle is slightly off-center.
Slanted Version: Designed for cases where the through-bore is off-axis, slanted, or both. This version is intended for very poorly drilled holes, ensuring proper alignment even in extreme conditions.
Single-Piece Version: Intended only for perfectly centered, axial through-bores (e.g., those made on a lathe).
The Thin version of the axis-fixture is designed with a larger internal hole for easier cable routing. However, please note that it is more fragile and prone to breaking during assembly compared to the standard version.
This process is divided into two stages to ensure perfect alignment.
Stage 1: Secure the wheel-centering-piece using the wheel-centering-piece-guide inserted into the bearing as an axial guide. Drill the holes for the M3x8 SHCS and screw them in to lock the assembly in place.
Stage 2: With the assembly secured by the M3 bolts, drill the holes for the M5 screws. Finally, install the M5x25 Ultra Thin Flat Wafer Head Screws using M5 washers and M5 nylon insert lock nuts to ensure a secure fit.
Tip: While you could technically skip the M3 stage and drill for M5 directly, following this sequence ensures much higher precision. The M3 screws can be removed after the M5 screws are secured, if desired.
This process is divided into two stages to ensure perfect fit.
Stage 1: Install your chosen version of the axis-fixture (as described in the Design Overview) into the drilled through-bore of the axle. To ensure it is seated deeply and evenly, press it into place using the axis-fixture-pusher inserted into the encoder-holder-guide.
Stage 2: Check if the fixture is seated firmly. No play is allowed inside the bore to ensure maximum precision. If the fit is loose, remove the part, apply a layer of tape around the axis-fixture or use a small amount of glue to ensure a rock-solid fit, and then repeat Stage 1. Crucially, any movement at this stage will cause significant deviations in the encoder’s readings.
This step permanently joins the encoder holder to the axis fixture. Precision is crucial.
Stage 1: Insert the encoder-holder into the encoder-holder-guide, then apply a small amount of glue (CA glue/Super Glue) to the mating surface.
Stage 2: Press the encoder-holder-guide (with the encoder-holder inside) into the wheel-centering-piece. This ensures the encoder-holder is perfectly guided as it meets the face of the axis-fixture for surface-to-surface bonding. Keep it pressed firmly while the glue sets to maintain axial alignment. Do not remove the guide until the glue has fully cured.
Stage 3: After the glue has fully cured and the guide has been removed, rotate the rotor several times. Observe if the wheel-centering-piece rotates perfectly on axis relative to the encoder-holder. If you notice any wobbling or misalignment, remove the bonded parts and start over with new components, returning to the Axis Fixture Installation step.
Stage 4: After confirming the alignment, install the encoder with the pre-soldered cable harness into the encoder-holder. Make sure the PCB is pressed all the way down into its final position and ensure the cables are properly routed through the axis. If the encoder does not sit firmly in the holder, use a small piece of tape or a drop of glue to ensure the PCB remains completely stationary.
Since front plate designs vary and magnets can be 6mm or 10mm in diameter, you must select the appropriate magnet-holder.
Stage 1: Magnet Diameter selection:
Use the standard version for 6 mm magnets.
Use the 10 mm version for a larger 10 mm magnet
Stage 2: Measure two key distances (refer to the picture):
Distance from the wheel-centering-piece top face to the top face of the glued encoder-holder.
Distance from the wheel-centering-piece top face to the top face of the encoder PCB.
Stage 3: Version Selection Criteria:
Standard Version: Use if Dim 1 > 2.5 mm and Dim 2 is between 2.0 mm and 4.5 mm.
with offset: Use if Dim 1 > 1.5 mm and Dim 2 is between 1.0 mm and 3.5 mm.
Stage 1: Press the diametrically magnetized magnet into the recess of your chosen magnet-holder. Crucially, the magnet must be perfectly flush with the outer surface of the holder. Ensure it is seated flat and fully pressed in.
Stage 2: Check if the magnet is fixed firmly in the magnet-holder. If the fit is loose, use a tiny drop of glue (CA glue) to secure it.
Stage 3: Slide the prepared magnet-holder into the wheel-centering-piece and secure it using M3x4 FHCS. Ensure the magnet-holder is seated perfectly with no gaps between the magnet-holder and wheel-centering-piece. It must be completely stable with zero movement.
Stage 4: Rotate the wheel manually to ensure that the magnet-holder rotates freely without touching the encoder. There should be a clear, consistent gap between the rotating magnet and the stationary encoder PCB.
If your hub spacer's inner hole is smaller than 40 mm, you can use the distance-washer. This part acts as a shim to ensure a proper fit and eliminate unwanted gaps if you are using a different hub spacer design.
Material: PETG, ASA, ABS - Avoid PLA for parts close to the motor, as heat may cause deformation.
Slicing settings: 5 perimeters for 0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm layer height, bot and top 5 layers (1mm thickness), 25% grid infill recommended.
Prefered parts orientation for print:
3x M3x8 Socket Head Cap Screws (or longer) - depending on your rotor face design. Ensure they do not protrude more than 1–2 mm beyond the inner face of the rotor.
6x M5x25 Ultra Thin Flat Wafer Head Screw or longer - adjust the length to fit your hub spacer, quick release, etc.
6x M5 Washer
6x M5 Nylon Insert Lock Nut
3x M3x4 Flat Head Countersunk Screws (or longer) - must not protrude beyond the bottom face of the wheel-centering-piece
Update 1: Loose fit version added for guys with a bit worse quality of printed parts.
Update 2: Experimental (not tested - doing on your own) designs added: single piece (dedicated for ideal axial hole made on lathe for example) and bearing fixed (some motors shaft are not flush with the outer surface of the bearing ring therefore it is possible to fix encoder in the inner ring).
Update 3: Distance washer added for anybody who want to use spacer with inner hole smaller than 40mm.
Update 4: Version for 10x3 mm magnet added
Update 5: Robust version of axis-holder added, old one renamed to axis-holder_skewed
Update 6: Thick version of axis-holder added, old one renamed to axis-holder-thin
Update 7: Single piece version of encoder-holder moved to separate folder from experimental. wheel-centering-piece modified to accomodate Nylon Insert Lock Nuts
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/ffbeast-hoverboard-direct-drive-wheel-encoder-and-magnet-mount
https://www.printables.com/model/934160-ffbeast-encoder-assembly/
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
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