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Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Image 1
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Image 2
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Image 3
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Image 4
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Image 5
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Image 6
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Image 7
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6
Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans 3D Printer File Thumbnail 7

Ender 3 NG v1.2 pogo pin bracket for electronics cover fans

Synthead avatarSynthead

September 10, 2025

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Description

The pogo pins used in this model are pretty aggressive on the copper tape, and will probably dig holes into the tape over time.  I highly recommend building this model that uses spring test probes instead.

The Ender NG v1.2 electronics enclosure panel has two holes for 6015 fans.  A shroud holds these fans in place, and they are expected to be connected to the MCU using a JST XH connector.  However, it can be a little cumbersome to plug and unplug this cable when attaching and removing this panel, and there is inevitable wear when doing so.

This model attaches to the inside of the electronics panel, and provides two pogo pins spaced 10 mm apart that makes contact to the electronics panel.  Add some copper tape to the inside of the panel, solder it to your fan wires, and viola: you have connector-less power to your fans!  Just take the panel on and off; the power will just happen without any hassle.

The best way to print this model is with the pogo pin holes face down.  Grid supports should be added to the bottom of the print.  This does mean that this surface might be a little stringy, but it'll be hidden behind an electronics vent, so no biggie.

I deliberately chose to use 10 mm spacing on the pogo pins with 6 mm copper tape to ensure that a short could not happen with these widths and spacing.  I do not recommend using copper tape wide enough to short the pogo pins while installing the panel.  Additionally, I also cut a transparent sticker sheet to cover the unused area of copper tape as insulation.

To build this bracket, first push the 2-pin JST XH connector into the hole on the connector.  Since bridges will be printed on one side, you may need to shave a little plastic for it to fit.  Then, tin and solder wires to the ends of the pogo pins (without installing them).  After, push them through the bracket and add a small touch of super glue to the pogo pins (near the solder) and to the back of the JST XH connector.  Let the model sit for about an hour as the glue hardens, then solder the pigtails off the pogo pins to the XH connector.

To modify your electronics panel for the pogo pins, first remove the fans and shrouds, then measure out a good location for the tape.  I chose the shortest path in the center directly to the right.  Cut a strip of the copper tape longer than needed, place a piece of tape near the end for a solder mask (see picture), add a dash of solder flux, and tin the edge of the copper.  Pull the sticker's paper off, and apply the copper tape to your measurements.  If it's a little crinkly, don't worry: it'll easily flatten simply with pressure from your finger.  You can also run the end of a Sharpie over the copper to make it smoother.  Then, cut your fan wires to an appropriate length, tin the ends, and solder to the tape.  Work quickly to prevent heat damage to the panel.

Make sure to keep track of the polarity while you build this bracket.  I chose to make the upper pin ground and the lower pin +24V.  Ensure that the polarity of the fans are correct, too.  It wouldn't be a bad idea to also add a fuse for these pins, since they're literally sticking out on purpose.  The 6015 fans in the Ender 3 NG v1.2 BOM are 1.8W, or 75 mA each at 24V, so a little 250 mA fuse will work great.  Short the pins, and your MCU will happily deliver 250 mA to safely pop the fuse.

Here is the BOM for this model.  The laser sticker paper is a little overkill, but it's what I had on hand and used, so I'm including it in this list.  You can certainly just add a little tape, or not insulate the copper at all, if you'd like.

  • Treedix TRX5-00005A pogo pins: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJPHFSXG
  • 6 mm wide copper tape: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WGYP2VR
  • 2-pin JST XH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2R966ZY
  • Laser sticker paper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087CNQ75R

Here's a model for a fan shroud with fan grills and no connector hole that is designed to work with this mod.

License:

BSD License

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