February 23, 2026
Description
UPFRONT!
I created a Discord channel for my Thermal vision builds but will add a #meshtastic channel there as well in case you have questions or problems. Please remain to the meshtastic channel for all sort of questions as all the other channels are ONLY for my thermal builds!
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The “Copywolf” is a reimagination of a Node prototype that was posted in the Meshtastic subreddit almost a year ago. The original creator promised to share the design but sadly never did up to this day ( evenso I kept asking repeatedly) You can find the original design my design was reimagined after here: Design little node possible with a 18650 reemplazable battery, nrf based really low consumption, fox with external antenna, best look and function as it can be service pushing the caddy with the tool easy way, universal mount at both sides to make mounts adapter, the fixed node preview too : r/meshtastic
After waiting long enough I gave up on ever seeing the original files and started to recreate the base design of it and adding my own ideas to the mix. The Result is the “Copywolf” (Copycat).
It is powered by a single 18650 battery (not soldered and swapable) a 0.96 Oled screen, BME280 Environmental sensor, GPS, Buzzer, vibra Motor, canned messages Navigation switch, notification LED, metal heavy duty Prog button, Filament reset button, Accessory side mount option for Attachments. SMA antenna connector and a TPU USB C Socket plug.
The design turned out to be one of my best in my opinion thanks to the inspiration of the original creators design! Its horizontal display make it a breeze to control it in “one hand mode” the index finger easily accessing the prog button while the thumb can be used to use the navigation switch simultaneously. It takes any SMA compatible Antenna up to 12mm in diameter.
I made a ton o pictures showing every part in the build phase so please refer to them.
The Faketec PCB Revision 5 and 5b are perfectly labeled by Shimon and should be self explanatory.
The top cap houses the Prog button as well as the SMA antenna, the navigation switch an the + pole of connection of the battery.
For the Prog button to be able to screw in the top cap you need to push the nut that comes with the switch into the top cap, the cutout can be found right behind where the SMA post will be mounted to.
by using a JST connector the top will be connected to the bottom part once you close the node up.
Using the JST connector cables and 0.3mm lacquered copper wire I simply wired all the connections on the faketec board that need to be connected to the top cap to the JST connector to make it easy to take the top cap off if needed.
To prevent the faketec board of being pushed upwards when inserting a USB C plug I used a piece of hard foam that I placed on top of the faketec board being flush with the top of the main base housing (see pictures).
Make sure to leave the wires connected to the Display and Environmental sensor long enough, I would also highly recommend using the same 0.3 or even 0.2 lacquered copper wire as it they are very flexible and easy to tuck away on the already very limited space inside the case.
As all the components will be pressed against each other, make sure to use Kapton tape to prevent shorts and also make sure you have no pointy solder spots that could puncture the Kapton tape.
The gps antenna goes in on the left side and can be fixed in place also with kapton tape, the same goes for the environmental sensor on the opposite side, once the faketec board is in they can not fall out any more anyway so the Kapton tape's task is to also isolate and prevent shorts.
The TPU/ translucent PLA/ PETG sealing is mandatory and creates an absolutely needed extra cavity/room for the JST connector. If you dont have tpu you can also print it in any other filament as long you DONT leave it out, or you wont be able to close up the case!!
The display is slightly angled on purpose so the sun does not reflect at your eyes when you look at it outside.
The buzzer slides into its little tunnel that runs angled in the middle of the case inside, push it in far enough to be out of the way when the faketec boards gets inserted into place. You can also kind of regulate the buzzer volume a bit by either pushing it all the way down minimizing the cavity and therefore having a more quiet buzzer or stop right at the tunnel so the buzzers end is flush with the outer wall creating a bigger cavity and therefor more volume.
When you look at the node standing upright, the top of the display is angled towards you, the Display frame featuring the same angle gets glued in to the main case, be careful with the glue and only apply a bit on the outer frame. If possible, glue the frame in first and let it dry all the way before you install the display to prevent the glue vapors to whiten your display and create permanent damage to the top layer.
If you want the TPU strap to bent inwards like mine do you simply need to use some hot air pointed on the bend of the TPU strap while you push it down.
Make sure to protect the surrounding surface from the hot air as we only want to soften the TPU and not any other part of the node. Repeat the same process on both sides. Keep pressing it in shape until it fully cooled down, then it will remain in the desired shape.
When you print the “supergrip” and you encounter hit and miss failed prints like I did with one of the side walls falling over while printing caused by bad bed adhesion, even so I activated supports and a brim, I added another variant with added supports on the inside that should come off easily after printing.
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UPDATES:
10.09.2025 fixing the cutout for the BME280 sensor as it caused a open line when sliced.
11.09.2025 adding a display frame
12.09.2025 added “supergrip” Harness for superior safety when handling the Copywolf
13.09.2025 added two tiny LEDs to the top sealing printed in translucent PET G adding LED notification to the mix. Added the name of the node on the TPU strap. The Leds get connected in parallel and directly connected to the pro micros GPIO 106 (Port 38 in the Meshtastic app)
15.09.2025 added a “shield” for the navigation switch to prevent accidental button presses. Simply glue that into place, it aligns perfectly with the already existing little flap from the top cap.
21.09.2025 Updated the Base with a better TPU cover for the USB C connector, it now can be opened and will remain attached to the main base so you wont loose it easily.
27.09.2025 Added the “ultragrip” a even more advanced strap that also upgrades the way you hold the Copywolf. Still usable as a normal strap the ultragrip needs to be thermal formed with hot air, as precise hotair is needed this is only possible with a hotair solder station.
30.09.2025 Added a antenna mod for the small SMA stubby antenna many Lora kits come with, replacing the antenna top cover, a knurled cover for the SMA nut and a distance ring covering the male SMA stud and nut mounted to the top part of the case.
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UPDATES IN THE WORKS!
Working on a 8 pin connector pannel that would make it a lot simpler to open the top cover witout having to disconnect the JST connector. I got a very very small 8 pin connector plug/socket assembly, So far it looks promising but connecting that thing with wire is going to be a surgery thing for sure O.o
I thought about making some different variants of the copywolf, the one already posted is going to be the “Stealth” as it has no exposed light sources visible.
I probably gonna add another version that is more iluminated with exposed status and charing light and also the top Prog button swapped with an illuminated one whenever the gps it powered a green light with be active.
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Part List:
FakeTec DIY Meshtastic Node: preferable V5 or V5 rev. B
gargomoma/fakeTec_pcb: A low-cost nrf52 device.
Navigation switch for canned messages: K2-02 hollowed shell: (
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33044807162.html
BME280 Environmental Sensor: 3,3volt
3 volt buzzer 8.5x8.5x3mm
Antenna:
(OPTIONAL): Stubby antenna for cyberpunk modded antenna ( yeah it surely is not great but works good enough)
Ipex to SMA adapter for LORA antenna ( as short as possible) : 5CM
GPS module (GPS +BDS):
Oled display: black/white or yellow
Wiring cable 0.3mm:
JST connector set ( Male/female) 10cm 10Pin:
LED lit up self resetting button: ( 8mm, 3.3 volt)
18650 Lithium ion battery 3500mAh: ( Best would be to source them locally as you never really know what you get when it comes to battery capacity with orders from china)
18650 BMS:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006019891578.html
Battery contacts:
Metal Band: 0.1mm 4mm:
Vibration motor:
Brass heat melt inserts: ( M2M2.5M3M4 850pcs) 2x M4x6x8mm and 8xM3 5mm
M3 screws: 8mm and 10mm ( for accessories (Belt clip, mounting point) not needed if you dont plan to add those))
M4 screws: 25mm x2
Optional LED notification Sealing: choose your favorite color or get a small mixed set.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006013369164.html?
Some Kapton tape, to isolate the Faketec board from the GPS and display and fixiate the gps antenna, Environmental sensor and Display.
Getting all the stuff into the case can be very tedious, take your time and try not to break any wires in the process.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
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