Accsoon Cineview to RED Komodo (Dual Canon BP) rear battery plate

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

This battery plate replaces your Accsoon Cineview's original battery Sony NP-F battery mount in place of dual Canon BP dummy slots so that your Accsoon Cineview can mount directly to the back of your RED Komodo and act as a counterweight if you're using heavy lenses such as the DZO Pictor Zooms like the one I have mounted in the photos on a gimbal such as the DJI RS4 Pro. 

Obviously, by doing so you lose the ability to power your gimbal from an NP-F battery. I use a DC to DTAP cable in my setup anyway so it doesn't matter. The Accsoon also has USB power capabilities but I find this to be to finicky.

Additionally I've added slots throughout the design to fit tungsten weights (usually used in small wooden derby cars). These press in or if you like you can glue them in. Here are the ones I used which are about 9.5mm in diameter: https://a.co/d/cRS7Bs6

On the top, there are also four holes for ¼" 20 threaded heat inserts. They are spread widely enough apart so that you can use four (or more if you stack them) of the following counterweights side by side: https://a.co/d/dWfXarq As you can see from my photos I use much bigger counterweights to fit the massive cinema lens but your setup may differ.

I'm intentionally not going to provide detailed instructions on assembly because if you can't figure it out from the following basic written instructions, you probably shouldn't be pulling apart your unit and tinkering with it anyway.  I'm sure this voids your warranty so do it at your own risk. Basically, you remove the four screws on the back of your Accsoon and pull apart the two sides of the outer shell. Be careful because there are two PCBs (one on each plate) which disconnect when you pull the two sides apart. Be gentle. There are 5 more screws that mount the PCB to the backplate and a simple cable which connects the rear PCB to the existing battery mount. Disconnect those.  What I noticed is that there is some thermal paste applied to the backside of the rear PCB. I'M NOT AN ENGINEER SO THE FOLLOWING IS ONLY THE LOGIC I USED AS A COMPLETE NOVICE: I wiped the grease off and used an M.2 drive heatsink where the thermal grease was to dissipate some of the heat that can no longer be dissipated through the metal housing. Again, I'm not sure if this works as well. I'm not sure if in the long run this will fry the unit but so far so good. I've had no issues using this for about two weeks. https://a.co/d/5y1hLbZ

I printed this with very little support material in ASA at 100% infill using a 5mm brim. I laid the part on that 45 degree chamfer between the backplate and where the threaded inserts go at the top when mounted. This printed the unit at an odd angle which intentionally requires less support material. The screws for the pcb just create their own thread into the plastic. I increased the XY scale on my design to 100.8 to account for ASA shrinking and 100.4 on the Z. That seems to work well for my particular brand of ASA in my conditions. Yours may vary. I don't recommend using PLA or some other material that might warp as you obviously don't want these things to warp.  It can be a little frustrating removing the plate from the KOMODO because reaching the release buttons is a bit difficult but I wanted this as slim as possible. You'll figure it out.

Finally, in case anyone is interested, the low profile antennas are a must as far as I'm concerned and these have been working relatively well: https://a.co/d/7rL0CdU

Enjoy.