Custom Yamaha XT225 Dash for Aftermarket Speedometer / RPM / USB port TW200?

About

See what it looks like here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_z8Omeqew1A

NOTE: YOU NEED TO BE COMFORTABLE WITH WIRING AND MODIFYING YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FOR THIS MOD. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF IT GOES WRONG FOR YOU OR YOU RUIN YOUR HARNESS. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Our crusty Yamaha XT225 has a busted speedometer gear drive and cable. No replacement exist. I could 3d print one of those, but why not over engineer the whole thing. This mount fits in the stock location, uses the stock angles, and stock hardware, but accepts a mediocre digital speedometer from the jungle site. 

This is a multi-piece print that will require your printer be reasonably dialed in, and you will also need to have TPU on hand. 

The main body should be printed out of PETG at a MINIMUM. Do not print this from PLA. It will melt in the sun. PETG might not even be suitable long-term. ASA / ABS / Nylon would all be more appropriate if you can swing that. I have also noticed cheap PETG can be brittle after printing. Overture is annoying to print but seems much more sturdy. 

Two TPU damper plugs fit into the feet of the main body. These are made from standard 95A TPU and printed solid. The stock dash has over molded rubber with metal torque limiters in there. 

A base gasket was made from SirayaTech FlexTPU. This stuff can vary in hardness based on print temp. Pretty cool eh? That gives us a bit softer landing zone for the gauge. 

A ring gasket for the speedo cup is also printed from that flex TPU. Softer is probably better, but you can use your own judgement. 

A cover plate for the right side will need 4x M4x14mm socket head bolts, and 4x M4 Brass Heat Inserts. The center hole is set up for this style USB Port. 

I will give some basic wiring info below in the near future, but may put together something more detailed on another site. 

PRINTING

Main Body

I will include a generic 3MF file for the main body that allows the face to be printed level with the print bed. You dont have to print it this way, but it will keep the holes mostly dimensionally accurate, and all the ugly support bits stay underneath. I have printed the assembly at an angle and it worked just fine, but if you're not a print nerd, I would stick with this. 

Again, this should be printed in PETG at a minimum. ASA / PETCF / NYLON etc probably all smarter options.

3 or more walls. I like to check the box for alternating wall to add strength. 20% or greater gyroid infill would be advisable.  Solid isnt a bad choice either. 

TPU Gaskets

The standard SirayaTech settings recommended seem to work fine. Just print it slow. If you use 95A might as well just make those parts out of PETG too. 

TPU Mount Dampers

These can and probably should be printed from 95A for longevity. I would recommend printing solid. (just increase the number of walls)

Speedometer

This thing comes with mediocre directions. I will update this piece as I go. Some people are impatient so I am posting before its all filled out. 

DO NOT CHANGE THE CYLINDER NUMBER IN THE SETTINGS.

If you change the cylinder number, you cannot change it back to 1 cylinder. I dont know why. Yes its dumb. It will show a number 2 blinking. Press and hold until the next menu shows up. You do not have to complete all the menus to save settings. 

Wheel Speed Sensor

I may print a custom bracket for this, haven't decided yet. Until then, just use the rotor cover bolts to mount the sensor, and place two magnets opposite each other on the rotor. You should glue them once its working. 

For the configuration, a value of 2050 seems to work for the speed on the currently installed tires. 

RPM Pulse

Coming from the stator cover are two wires from the pulse coil. There will be a two pin sumitomo connector. The wires are Blue/White and Red/White. We want to tap the Blue/White wire. 

I use bullet connectors. You will need to cut, and add in at least a 2 pin female bullet terminal. On the other side, you'll need a male connector. Same for the RPM wire that will be run up to the dash. Or use electrical tape and scream at the sun, I don't care, but I recommend buying good quality terminals if you follow my lead. Notice that I didn't put an amazon link here. Those things will bend and break. 

Crimp Tool 

Turn Signals

You cannot tap the stock turn signal wires going to the stock gauges. Or rather you can, but it will just blink one turn signal indicator, and our new cool gauge has a left/right. 

For those to work, we need to tap in-line on the positive side of the turn signals. Another good case for those bullet connectors. 

Fuel Gauge

There is a spot on the dash for this, and the XT does not have a fuel gauge. You could set up a temp sensor or something and plug it in here, as the gauge is reading resistance. I will probably wire in a resistor and run that to a ground. Otherwise it will just blink.

Wire Harness

XT Circuit Info Here

Red constant power wire: (I tapped with a blue wire, probably should use red)

Reach out if you need to. Remember to check the wire functionality before cutting anything. 

The new speedos should come with plugs and terminals, but you'll still need your own.