Recently, I made a Life-Size Bamboozler from the hit game series Splatoon!
The only issue was that despite making the conservative estimate that Inklings are only 5 feet tall, their freakishly large heads and hands make anything they hold look really small, which means that in actuality, their weapons are… well, huge. You can check out the original one hereif you want to see what I’m talking about.
So in response to that, I made this one! Certainly not tiny by any stretch of the imagination, but much more reasonably sized to human proportions. You’ll have to run through more than one roll’s worth of filament, but no color itself amounts to more than a roll.
I hope you enjoy the Smaller Edition of my Bamboozler 14 Mk I! I recommend you check out the assembly video at the end of the description and the accompanying 3mf files to assist you in printing and assembly, but I have listed out a bunch of information about the model in text form below. Keep in mind, while functionally I have just decreased the size of the larger model, doing so required me to completely rework the space tolerances and the sizes of each individual piece, so while a lot of the assembly is similar to the bigger model, there are still many differences you need to pay attention to.
Parts List
Files:
SmallerBamboozlerSTEP - a singular STEP file with all the bodies and assemblies included together in separate components
H2DSmallBamboozler3mf - A 3MF file made in Bambu Studio for Bambu Lab H2D printers. Recommended if you have one, since no parts ever print in more than two colors at a time
GeneralSmallBamboozler3mf - Same as above, but for an X1C. Should work on the P and A series of printers as well.
Filaments:
All filaments used were BambuLab Basic PLA:
Bambu Green (Main color of the Main Body)
Dark Grey (Main color of the Sights, Lid Clip)
Black (Stopper, Pegs)
Beige (accented color of the Main Body)
Silver (SmallKnobPin,SightBigPin, secondary color of any of the Dark Grey parts or the Lid)
Magenta (Lid)
Printed Parts:
Special Print Instructions:
Generally automatic supports should do you well, but I don’t think any of the Main Body pieces need them except for the HandleBodyConnector.
Pegs all have 20% infill for strength and rigidity, with all other parts at 5% for weight.
I’ve categorized the parts into 5 different Groups:
Main Body
8 parts numbered 1-8, excluding 4 and 6 (Bambu Green, sometimes with Beige)
TopHandle (Bambu Green)
HandleBodyConnector (Bambu Green)
BottomHandle (Bambu Green with Beige)
Close Sight
SightMainBody (Dark Grey with Silver)
Sight (Dark Grey)
SmallKnob (Dark Grey with Silver)
SightBigKnob (Dark Grey)
SightBigPin (Silver)
SightSmallPin (Silver)
Far Sight
4 & 6 (Dark Grey with Silver)
FarSightPoint (Dark Grey)
Lid
LidClip (Dark Grey with Silver)
Lid (Magenta)
Stopper (Black)
Pegs
Peg(Long) X4 (Any color is fine)
Peg(Short) X4 (Any color is fine)
Peg(C-shaped, skinny) (Any color is fine)
Peg(C-shaped, fat) (Any color is fine)
Peg(Hexagonal-shaped) (Any color is fine)
Non-Printed Parts:
Glue
Assembly
Intro:
While there are a decent number of parts with this assembly, I’ve done my best to design everything in such a way that physically prevents you from putting them together incorrectly. However, there are a couple things you have to keep in mind regardless:
The SmallKnobPin can be put in backwards–the curved edge is supposed to face inwards, which makes it easier to insert.
Technically the LidClip and Lid can be put together backwards, but it’ll look really weird and be really awkward to assemble if you try to do that.
Instructions:
The first thing we’ll deal with are the numbered bodies. Start with #1, and glue two of the long pegs into the holes. Glue #2 onto it, sliding it down the pegs until the number 1-shaped hole matches up with the bumped out number one on body #1. Work your way down to #8, using up all 4 long pegs first, and then the last two shorter ones. Each number fits into the corresponding hole of the next body in order to prevent mistakes.
Stand that up to let gravity hold it together while it dries. While that is happening, glue the FarSightPoint to Bodies #4 and #6–it doesn’t fit if you do it the wrong way.
Next, we’ll work on the other sight apparatus. Using the SightBigPin, pass it through the same-shaped hole on the left side of the SightMainBody, threading it through the Sight on its way through, like the image. It’ll be poking out of the right side, so glue the SightBigKnob on it to cover it up. Leave that for now.
On to the Handle! The HandleBodyConnecter will be connected to the HandleTop and HandleBottom via the two C-shaped pegs. Don’t worry about putting them on the wrong way; they’re shaped such that you can’t put the wrong peg or corresponding HandleTop/Bottom on the wrong way.
For the Lid, glue the Stopper in the big groove on the Lid. Then, fit the LidClip into its place on the Lid, making sure it faces outwards.
Finally, we can glue everything together:
Put the sight apparatus on #2, lining up the holes in the sides with the indentations in #2. Glue the SmallKnob in on the left side (it has a little tab to line it up), and glue the SmallKnobPin in on the right, making sure the curved-lipped side goes in first. Make sure they line up with and go into the indentations in the sides!
Fit the Lid Clip into the indentation on #8. Make sure it’s properly dry and solidly attached before you proceed.
Lastly, use the hexagonal peg to attach the HandleBodyConnector to #1.
Make sure the glue has dried, and you’re done!
Conclusion:
That should be it! I hope you enjoy a Bamboozler that is a little more… reasonable to print, assemble, and hold!
As always, if you like what I do and want to support me, any interactions with this model help! Downloading, printing, and rating them all help me gather points (on their respective sites) and help me get one step closer to making this a full time thing!
CarlThePumpkinMan
