Accsoon Cineview to Manfrotto Style Baseplate undermount for DJI Ronin RS4 Pro or RS3 Pro

This design is a new variant of my previous design which allows me to mount an Accsoon wireless transmitter under my RED Komodo by replacing the back plate for the NPF battery (since I use the DC jack to power the unit anyway). You should also reference my previous design (https://www.printables.com/model/1409362-accsoon-cineview-to-red-komodo-dual-canon-bp-rear) for all the disclaimers about safety and also some recommendations on antennas and heat sinks. 

In this iteration, I have designed some some 45º inserts for adding ¼ 20 counterweights as pictured. Also, I've replaced the antenna holes on the original mount with some tungsten weights (you can find the links for what I used on my previous design linked above).

This design works much better in my opinion as you can slide the camera back and move the center of gravity while still using the transmitter as a counter weight for heavy lenses. I can now mount the RED Komodo with a DZO Pictor Zoom, DJI Focus Pro module, 2x DJI focus motors, a Tilta Mirage matte box with  front flag and a 4x5.6" ND filter, and Accsoon Cineview SE wireless transmitter onto my DJI RS4 Pro. I use a custom 3D printed backplate for additional counterweights on this maxed out setup but if I remove the matte box and filter I can use just counterweights that are built in to this design to balance the gimbal. I can also mount in either horizontal or vertical mode. See video here of the maxed out version:  

You'll need some M2x16 or 20 screws for the new mount where the buldges now are from the antennas being re-routed. About that, I needed to re-route the antennas to go sideways so they don't hit the back of the gimbal.   You'll need some short springs (4mm wide x 10-15mm long. I had this kit from a previous project.  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YMZNLGC?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_10). These go in the quick release mechanism around the pins that locate the locking mechanism. You'll need an M3x6 threaded insert for the thumbscrew.  You'll need a 3x8x4 ball bearings (I use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHCLF9S3?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1) so that the quick release mechanism doesn't rotate while you rotate the thumbscrew. You'll also need I believe an M3 x 16 or 20 I think for the screw on the knob along with a few M3 nuts (lock nuts are probably better here). I used 4 nuts. One for the thumbscrew which has a press fit insert. One between the thumbscrew and threaded insert and one either side of the 3mm ball bearing. and one on either side of the ball bearing. I used superglue to hold the ball bearing in there after press fitting it in and adjusting all the nuts so they work properly.

The antennas re-route with  no additional hardware. you'll need a slim 5/8" nut remover or socket to get to them. I had one in a Home Depot Ryobi kit that worked. For the old antenna holes, I included a file that has a hex shaped piece where you insert an M2x3 threaded insert and use an M2 bolt to secure the piece for the tungsten weights (linked in my other post). This can also just prevent elements from entering there.

I used ASA with 6 walls and printed the main body at 45 degrees from one of the small profiles on the side with minimal supports. This worked well. Also ASA has some shrinking so factor that in by scaling up per your ASA. There are 5 total parts:

-The main back plate

-Locking mechanism

-Thumscrew

-Antenna replacement for tungsten counterweights (I print 4 of these)

-The hex piece for the Antenna replacement to screw into (I also print 4 of these. I suppose these can be optional if you trust the press fit. I didn't so I added the m2 screws and threaded insert to this piece)