HOn30 Shorty Boxcab

Here is my version of the ALCO Boxcab designed for HOn30. This was designed loosely based on several prototype photos and uses a readily available chassis. This model was designed to be printed on an FDM printer with a standard 0.4 mm nozzle and all parts are designed to be printed with no support. Also, this model is designed for use on the inexpensive and readily available Kato 11-105, 11-106, or 11-107 chassis for power.

Tips for printing:
Print 1 of each file and two sets of headlights, pilot ends, exhaust, radiators, access hatch, and roof radiators (optional). I also included a tool for centering and spacing the roof radiators, and for painting the wasp stripes if desired. I recommend printing the body right side up, the frame, exhausts, and roof panel upside down; the pilot ends and side panels/radiators on their backs, the roof radiators on their ends sticking upwards, and finally the roof on its side sticking upwards. (I’ve attached a picture of how I orient my parts for the “best” surface finish.)

Assembly:
What you’ll need: Printed components, Kato Chassis, paint, super glue, small file or sand paper (just in case of fitment issues), and any additional detail parts you want to add.
Check the fitment of the frame and body on the chassis and make any adjustments necessary. they should slide down over the top of the chassis without forcing them (they are a snug fit and can be a bit fiddly, sand or file the openings to your desired fitment. Also check the fitment of the roof on the body and adjust if necessary. The roof panel should sit flat on the roof using the exhaust stacks to align it. Once the roof panel and exhausts are glued on you can use the provided tool to help space and align the roof radiators if you decide to use them (be careful not to glue the tool to the roof! You can discard it once you’re done.) I recommend gluing the pilot ends to the frame; the side panels, side radiators, and headlights to the body, and all the roof components to the roof before painting and then gluing the body, frame, and roof assemblies together after painting. I’ve also supplied a stencil if you want to try your hand at adding wasp stripes to the ends of your model.

Final notes:
For additional details I added window glazing to mine using some clear plastic packaging. I’ll probably add steps and a bell in the future. I tried to use the stencil for the wasp stripes but my airbrush was acting up so I ended up hand painting them so they’re a little off.
For couplers, you can use the standard Rapido style couplers, but I switched mine to Kato 923500 knuckles with minimal fuss using Kato 923524 cover plates. Roundhouse and Fox Valley Models also make nice more straight forward conversion knuckle couplers (but I only recommend the coupler swap for more experienced modelers doing it at their own risk).

If you have any comments, questions, suggestions, or funny remarks feel free to reach out to me. As always, I hope to be sharing more of my models in the future and if you have any suggestions for models you’d like to see in HOn30 let me know.

Best Regards,
Dr. Fixet