I purchased some “CHANCS Turntable Synchronous MotorTYC-50 110V 5-6 RPM motors” from Amaz…, and wanted a self-contained enclosure for the motors, which could then be mounted to various surfaces, to be used for INDOOR Halloween decorations and carnival games (see https://www.printables.com/model/1450228-mini-golf-motor-mountstandobstacle-for-chancs-moto ). These motors came with the power cords and wiring connectors, but I wanted to utilize WAGO 221 2-wire connectors. I designed this enclosure for this purpose.
Parts Needed per motor (besides the motor kit):
- 1 - Printed Top piece
- 1 - Printed Bottom piece
- 2 - WAGO 221-412 Lever-Nuts - 2-Conductor
- 7 - 4mm x 16mm self-tapping screws
Tools Needed:
- Wiring Tool (helpful, but not mandatory – included as a printable file)
- Wire cutter/stripper
- Sharp knife (for CAREFULLY removing the power cord outer housing only)
- Screwdriver
- Clamp (for clamping Top & Bottom pieces together to crimp the power cord – not mandatory, but helpful)
NOTES and INSTRUCTIONS:
- I printed with Basic PLA at 0.20mm layer height, with no supports. Most filaments will work fine for this model. The models are provided in the proper printing orientation.
- This enclosure is designed specifically for this motor kit. The notch for the power cord is sized for the supplied power cord that comes with this kit.
- One reviewer of this TYC-50 motor stated that the it gets “hot.” Without having run the motor for an extended time to verify this claim, I decided to design in some ventilation. Thus, the opening on the lid and the internal ribbing/splines will help with this a bit.
- This enclosure is designed for INDOOR USE ONLY. It offers NO WATER RESISTANCE; and in fact, it would actually collect water inside the housing, filling it until it short-circuited.
- I trimmed the wires from the motor to ~90mm, and I removed the OUTER housing from the power cord to ~70mm; this will allow you to route the wiring as shown in the attached photo. Additional wire stripping will be necessary to comply with WAGO's stripping specifications.
- To position the motor so that the spindle/shaft is ~centered in the housing (for balance), the wires from the motor run underneath the motor, from the front/label-side of the motor, to the back, with the label facing away from the power cord side of the enclosure (see attached photo).
- The inside walls of the receiving boxes for the WAGO connectors are designed with bumps/detents, so that the connectors will ‘click’ into place (they will be slightly loose, but should remain in place for most applications).
- If you do not wish to use WAGO 221s, you could use a small twist-on wire nut and place this assembly in the compartments where the WAGOs would go.
- Some people will find that it is easier to complete the wiring prior to installing the assembly into the housing Bottom. This is also helpful for testing the assembly. I found it easier to, at least, install the motor wires to the WAGO connectors before placing them in the Bottom piece.
- A quickly printable Wiring Tool has been provided to help push the wires in place. It is difficult to do this using only one's fingers. The tool has a wide tip on one end and a thin tip on the other. Be careful not to damage the insulation/housing on the individual wires while routing them.
- The Top and Bottom pieces have offset/opposing ridged teeth to secure the power cord. Before installing and screwing down the lid, I positioned all of the components and wiring (as shown in the photo), making sure that the power cord housing was pushed in as far as it would reasonably go, then while holding the cord in place, I installed the lid and applied pressure. I used a clamp to apply additional pressure. This caused the ridges to bite/indent the cord housing, and helps the Top and Bottom pieces to fit together somewhat flush. These ridges could be filed down for less indentation, but consequently, with less hold/security. I did not design-in any strain relief for the power cord because these units will generally be fixed in place and the cord will not be bent much.
- The screw receiving holes are designed for 4mm x 16mm self-cutting screws (no threading is necessary). However, it wouldn't be difficult to tap the holes with threads for common 4mm screws.
- Unless you only use 2 screws for the motor mounting tabs/arms/wings, instead of 4, you will need to make sure that the head of the screws that you use are not greater than ~7.15mm in diameter. The holes are too close together on the motor mounting tabs/arms/wings for larger diameter screw heads.
- Each end of the Bottom enclosure piece has two exterior mounting tabs, to allow for attaching the completed enclosure to a surface or object.
SteveJohnsen
