April 18, 2023
Description
(Remixed from: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1864725 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:714475 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1406879 )
UPDATE 2:
Updated it with a MK3 version of the arm.
If it's a bit too snug, sanding the top of the "fork" is the easiest (that goes between the heatbed and Y-Carriage).
Naturally the fit will depend on your settings and material.
UPDATE:
I made a new frontplate to support a 12v 40mm LED ring, with a cover.
(C270_WideLens_FrontPlate_LED and C270_WideLens_LED_Cover)
I changed all the parts for the C270 camera mount, and made it support a cheap wide angle lens.
-It will require an extra M3 screw (plus a washer if the head is small) for attaching the camera to the arm, and an M4 screw to be able to adjust the vertical camera angle.
-The frontplate and backplate will require two ~m2.5x12 screws (Notune21 hasn't specified, so this is just a guesstimate). But I used two small m3 wood screws I had laying around, and they seem to have worked just fine.
-The arm has been modified to fit the MK2S buildplate, shortened and made in one piece (removing the need for the printed plastic screw). I also added two slots on the back for zip ties.
-The mount that screws directly into the camera has had the groove removed.
-The camera parts (back plate, front plate and focus ring) have been modified to support a wide angle lens.
-Naturally, you will have to print the arm out of a material that can tolerate high temperatures. Since it contacts the underside of the heatbed. (I used PETG just fine for a few years, but it can vary a lot depending on brand just how tolerant it actually is. So I would recommend something more temperature resistant)
-The LED ring is 40mm OD, and ~27,75 ID
I used a cheap magnetic lens kit made for cellphones.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
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