THE FLIPPASNIPPA!

The FlippaSnippa is a servo-actuated cutter mechanism designed to work with the Ender3 V1/V2 and clones that have been modified with a linear rail on the X axis.

The flippasnippa is designed to work best with the following supporting modifications:

1: A reversed variant of the DragonBurner filament cutter:
https://www.printables.com/model/950258-filament-cutter-for-orbiter-v20-on-dragon-burnerhttps://www.printables.com/model/950258-filament-cutter-for-orbiter-v20-on-dragon-burner

(You can use your slicer to mirror the parts so they will sit correctly at the back side of the print head)

2: the LRX toolhead (Based on the LDO Apogee with extended ducts to support an Ender3 KE high flow rapid-change hotend)

https://www.printables.com/model/1144586-ldo-apogee-toolhead-mod-for-installing-ke-hotend-ohttps://www.printables.com/model/1144586-ldo-apogee-toolhead-mod-for-installing-ke-hotend-o

If you have a standard LDO Apogee toolhead, this too should work, but as I haven't actually tested that config on this machine - I would advise continuing with caution and test the alignment of the fippasnippa arm to the cutter mech before attempting to use the flippasnippa for a multi-material print.

During a filament cut, the machine will move the head to a specified position just near the flippasnippa,. It'll then drop the flippasnippa arm and slowly move the print head twice into the flippasnippa arm, pushingthe cutter lever which performs the cut.

The first actuation of the arm should reliably snip the filament, but there is a second cut move to make absolute sure the filament is fully cut before the MMU continues with extracting the filament.

When the machine is not using the flippasnippa, it will stow the arm in the upright position so you can still use the full travel of the X carriage for normal printing and homing the machine without accidentally actuating the cutter arm mid-print.

The X carriage block also incorporates a cable management arm that helps to redirect the wiring harness of the print head upwards and around

NOTE: The X carriage block is also designed to work with machines that support sensorless homing (any machine with TMC2209 drivers should be more than capable of this). It should be possible to retrofit your X limit switch 

The two text files included are direct from my machine's macros and configuration files. I use a BigTreeTech SKR-E3 V3 on my machine. If you have a different board, check your pinout and change the servo pin if required.

The servo will have a black, red and yellow wire.

RED: +5v power
BLACK: Ground
YELLOW: PWM signal wire

Make sure your colours match up and you should be good to go.

PARTS NEEDED TO BUILD:

1x 9G servo + supplied self-tapping screws

Original screws from the existing X carriage block

TO BUILD THE FLIPPASNIPPA:

BEFORE ADDING THE FLIPPASNIPPA ARM TO THE SERVO - It's recommended to put the configs provided into your Klipper configuration, connect the servo and boot the printer. This will make sure the servo is parked at 0* before installing the arm.

1: Print the parts. I would recommend using ABS or PETG to reduce the chances of filament creep on the X carriage block from the constant tension the screws will create.

2: Sit the servo into the X carriage block so that the underside of the servo is flush with the front side of the X carriage block and install the two provided mounting screws.

3: install the Flippasnippa arm so that it points DIRECTLY UPWARDS and install a lock screw.

4: Remove the belt tension from your X axis by removing or loosening the belt tensioner on the right hand side of the X gantry

5: Remove the four screws on the stock X carriage block

6: thread the screws from the X carriage block into the FippaSnippa X carriage

7: install the FlippaSnippa X carriage block onto the printer.

NOTE: check your X belt is at least around the motor pulley before committing to tightening everything in!!

8: reinstall / re-tension your X axis belt tensioner
Then - you're good to go!