FlashForge AD5x filament tube guide swing

 I do not like the extended top for the Flashforge AD5x and wanted a simple addon to keep the tubes from touching the top.  I've designed a part that replaces the accent part in the side panel that the tubes pass through.  It clamps to the panel and on the inside is a swingarm to attach the tube bundle to with soft wire tie straps.  This allows full movement of the tubes but prevents them from hitting panels.   The spindle of the swing arm is under tension with a 40mm M3 for strength and at the bottom of the spindle is an adjustable stop to keep the arm from hitting the rear of the printer.  

Note:  This is a modification to the enclosure system on the FlashForge AD5x.  Like any modifications there is a risk of the user damaging their product or unforseen issues from the modification can also cause damages.  This modifcation as all others to 3d printers are at your own risk to your products. 

I made a new outside trim with a smaller gap and lined with PTFE tube.   You can get it here.  

https://www.printables.com/model/1459942-flashforge-ad5x-side-trim-with-smaller-slot-and-pt

Required Hardware:

• 3x M3 - 5OD - 4L  heated thread inserts (voron standard size)
• 2x M3x14mm screws (socket button head is best)
• 1x M3x40mm screw  (Socket head or button head is fine)
• A touch of silicon grease or similar (superlube)
• soldering iron to install threaded inserts

optional: file, hobby knife, sand paper, socket head drivers (typical maker tools)

Print Settings:

• .20mm Layer Height
• 40% Infill
• 4 bottom and 4 top layers
• 4 perimeters

Instructions.   

Sacrificial parts:

Remove the removable support material in the inside trim part.  Once removed you can test fit the outside trim part into the inside trim part.  Make sure the surfaces where they join are smooth and free of support material.  Sanding the mating surfaces smooth is good practice here. Test fit the two parts. Refer to the cad photo for reference.  

Remove the other removable support material on the hinge end of the inside frame. Surface prep not needed, this area is hidden but the enclosure framework

inserts:

  Install 2 heated inserts in the Inside half of the assembly.  The inserts go into the part facing inside the printer.    

Install 1 heated insert into the swing arm on the top side above the spindle

Swing arm assembly:

Inspect the spindle and scrap off or sand any plastic that is sticking out from printing.  You want it to be round and surface clean.   Add a touch of silicon grease (superlube) to the surface of the spindle.  Not too much, just enough to make the surface slippery.   

Insert the spindle into the Inside trim through the spindle hub. The flat top swing arm will be higher than the tube pass through slot at this point.  If not,  you put it in upside down.  Refer to the cad drawing for reference.  

Install the spindle bottom and 40mm screw into the bottom of the spindle and tighten the screw into the heated insert you installed earlier.  The bottom part will have a relief cut the spindle sits down into. Before tightening the screw fulling,  adjust the bottom to act as a stop to keep the arm from swinging too far past 90degrees.  This can be fine tuned after the parts are all installed in your printer.  Tighten the screw now firmly. 

Final Assembly onto the printer:

Unload the filament and disconnect your tubes.  Either at the 4way, or the IFS, otherwise I have to remove the toolhead cable as well.  Use tools like this little disconnect tool of Lysander's to disconnect the tubes from the IFS.  It takes a bit of force to push down on the release.  If you are uncomfortable with this, stop right here and maybe do not attempt to do this mod. 

Tube Removal Tool:  https://www.printables.com/model/1350249-ptfe-tool-4mm-external-dia

Now take both trim parts, inside and outside.  The inside trim with the hinge and swingarm facing up and towards the back of the printer.  Now take the outside part and mate it to the inside part.  Use your hand holding the inside part and reach out out with a finger or two to hold the outside part as well.  Then get a m3x14 screw started.  Then get the other screw started.  Tighten both of them firmly to clamp the acrylic panel between the inside and outside parts. 

Now check the throw of the swingarm.  If it can touch the rear panel, adjust the spindle bottom/stop by twisting it away from you preventing the spindle from hitting the rear panel. I just stick a finger between the swingarm tip and the rear panel, then adjust the stop with my other hand. Once you are satisfied with the stop position,  snug the 40mm screw tightly.  You will still be able to force it to slide on the stop no matter how tight you make it, but just tighten enough that the arm will stop with gentle movement of the swingarm. 

Reinstall your filament tubes and make them in a bit of a round bunch near the tip of the swingarm. Now take a soft wire management strap and loop it through the end slot on the swing arm and then around your tube bundle.  

DO NOT WRAP THE CABLE FOR THE TOOLHEAD IN WITH THE TUBES.  

 You just want the filament tubes attached to the swing arm.  The tubes should be able to slide inside the soft wire tie but not flex up into a panel.  Grab the toolhead with your hand (printer off/motors off) and move in all corners to inspect for any binding. Toolhead should be able to reach everywhere with the tubes free to move with.   You may have to adjust where you have the 4way divider and the toolhead wire clamp if they are up too high and touch your swing arm.  

That is the end of assembly.  Start up some prints and make sure everything is moving freely and make any adjustments that maybe needed.