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VW Beetle Magnetic Moving Key Holder 3D Printer File Image 1
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VW Beetle Magnetic Moving Key Holder

Laver avatarLaver

March 4, 2022

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Description

This cute bug holds your keys with magnets and moves both bonnet & boot in unison when attached.

Updates

  • v1.1 - I've lengthened the linkages slightly. This allows more travel on the mechanism and helps smaller keychains make contact with both magnets.
    • I've included GCODE for v1.1 linkages, or you can download the full 3mf.
    • Included a (hidden) mounting standoff block in the 3mf to help stick to a wall. Just glue to the Back.

Materials

You'll need:

  • PLA filament
  • 2 x 8x3mm Magnets (100 of these are <$12)
  • [Optional] Super Glue

Printed Components

  • All the parts fit on a Prusa Mini (180x180mm) bed and are included in the file.
  • They're separated and named, so you can easily print in different colors / materials if you care to do so.
  • 1 x Back - Contains all the mounting / pivot pins for the moving components.
  • 1 x Front - Decorated front with the Beetle details.
  • 1 x Bonnet & 1 x Boot - The externally moving pieces.
  • 1 x Actuator - The moving piece which contacts with the keyring to move everything.
  • 2 x Linkages - Connect the Actuator, to the Bonnet and Boot via pivot pins in the Back

Print Instructions

  • 0.4mm nozzle @ 0.2mm layer or less.
    • My test prints are all 0.5mm nozzle @ 0.2mm layer.
  • No supports are required.
  • Min 3 top layers - Exactly 2 perimeters.
    • Any fewer top layers and the quality may suffer due to infill.
    • Any more perimeters and the surface detail may be lost.
  • 15% infill.
  • As the top face is the display side, it's useful to have your extrusion rate dialed in otherwise the face can get messy. I had some luck with ironing, but that also benefits from a dialed extrusion rate.
  • PLA is recommended due to the bridging.
    • I tried PETG, it'd be fine for the Back, but the bridging on the Front may be a struggle.
  • If your bridges look messy then try printing the Front at a lower temperature to improve bridging.
    • The bridges need to be clean as there isn't a lot of clearance when assembled.
    • I've included a picture of how my bridging turned out for reference.
    •  
  • Watch out for elephant foot on the Linkages and the Bonnet and Boot. If the base spreads too much due to filament / bed heat, then the holes may not fit over the pivot pins.
  • The main Bonnet & Boot pivots are the weakest link, good layer adhesion is valuable here. I've only had issues with matte PolyTerra PLA. Others have been fine.

Assembly

  • Lay all the pieces out on the Back piece.
    • Bonnet, Boot, and Actuator pieces sit flush on the Back.
    • 2 Linkages connect between the pivot pins.
  • Insert the magnets into the Back piece.
    • Works best with opposing poles facing out. E.g. the magnets are slightly repelling each other.
    • They should hold in place without glue when the Front is snapped on, but depending on the print quality they may be a tad too lose, so glue can make sure they stay.
  • Snap on the Front
    • Designed to be a press fit, I've found it varies depending on your flow rate.
    • Suggest gluing with super glue once you're happy to ensure it doesn't pop off the wall.
  • Mount to the wall.
    • I've left this up to the reader. I'd suggest printing a rectangular standoff (e.g. just a Box shape in PrusaSlicer) and scale it based on how far from the wall you'd want.
    • You can then glue the standoff (box) to the Back, then attach to the wall with double-sided tape. 

This is a greatly improved version of my hanging key holder, which had independent hooks for 2 sets of keys.

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

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