Hello! This model was made as a part of the Pumpkin Jam 2: Length (more info here https://www.carlthepumpkinman.com/pumpkin-jam ), and accordingly was entirely modeled within a 48 hour period.
It has been entirely printed and tested, however, and video assembly instructions are on the way!
It was created to invoke a sense of Halloween, with a pumpkin handle, bat crossguard, and an eyeball at the base of the black-and-orange blade. The Sheath was made to look like a vampire biting, with little rivulets of blood flowing down and pooling at the bottom of the Sheath.
Finally, a belt can be threaded through the holes in the Sheath to make it wearable, and a Hanger is included to allow for decoration on a wall.
Parts List
Files:
X1CSpookySword3mf: A 3mf file made in BambuStudio that is configured for the BambuLab X1C
H2DSpookySword3mf: A 3mf file made in BambuStudio that is configured for the BambuLab H2D
SpookySwordSTL: The entire Sword and Sheath in STL form. I used the STEP, but the StemSTEP and CrossguardSTEP have high triangle counts, so if that isn’t working for you, use this.
SpookySwordSTEP: The entire Sword and Sheath in STL form. I don’t know if it was an issue with my PC or what, but the StemSTEP and CrossguardSTEP have high triangle counts, so I couldn’t get it to load in all at once. I split it into parts down below.
FrontEyeSTEP: One of two parts that adorn the Crossguard.
BackEyeSTEP: One of two parts that adorn the Crossguard.
BatSTEP: A bat shape that forms the wings of the Crossguard.
BladeSTEP: A STEP file containing all 3 Blade Pieces, as well as the orange center line.
CrossguardSTEP: A piece where the Blade and Stem fit into. Contains a lot of triangles, so you may want to import it with lower resolution or use the STL version.
PegsSTEP: Contains all the inner structural pegs for both the Sword and Sheath
PumpkinSTEP: The pumpkin on the pommel.
StemStep: The handle. Contains a lot of triangles, so you may want to import it with lower resolution or use the STL version.
SheathSTEP: The entire sheath.
HangerSTEP: A wall mount for the sheath.
Filaments:
All filaments used were BambuLab Basic PLA, unless otherwise specified
Black
Jade White
Orange
Pumpkin Orange
Brown
Red
Matte Scarlet Red
Printed Parts:
Special Print Instructions:
Overall, most of the parts were printed with 5% infill to keep parts light, with structural parts printed with 20% infill. Structural parts include all the Pegs, the Crossguard, and the Stem(handle). The rest of the settings were determined by the standard 0.24mm X1C draft/H2D standard preset, with variable layer heights set to the default settings.
Blade
Blade1 (Black): Printed standing up
Blade2 (Black): Printed standing up
Blade3 (Black): Printed standing up
OrangeBack1 (Orange): Printed laying flat
OrangeBack2 (Orange): Printed laying flat
OrangeBack3 (Orange): Printed laying flat
OrangeFront1 (Orange): Printed laying flat
OrangeFront2 (Orange): Printed laying flat
OrangeFront3 (Orange): Printed laying flat
Sheath
Left/Right Fang (Jade White): printed with 3 wall loops for extra strength. Needs supports.
Sheath 1 (Black): Apparently needs supports(?) Bambu Studio told me there were floating sections, and turning on supports solved the error, but I don’t know why.
Bat (Black): Made of two bodies that need to be split into two parts. Needs support.
Crossguard (Black): Needs support.
Right/Left Eye (Jade White, Red): The only parts that need two colors. The Red and Jade White parts are contained in completely separate layers, so you have a choice of either coloring the top part Red or doing a filament swap at the appropriate place.
Stem (Brown)
Pumpkin (Pumpkin Orange): Needs supports.
Pegs (individual bodies aren’t named)
2 Small, Square-end Pegs (Any color): Made to fit BloodPool1 to BloodPool2
4 Small, Flat Pegs (Any color): Made to attach Sheath1 to Sheath2, and to attach Sheath2 through BloodPool1 to BloodPool2
5 Long Pegs (Any color): 2 of them attach Blade 3 to Blade 2, 2 of them attach Blade 2 to Blade 1, and one of them attaches the Stem directly to the Blade1
Hanger
1 Hanger (Red)
2 Hanger pegs (Red): Print laying down
Non-Printed Parts:
Glue
2 Nails (for the wall mount)
Assembly
Intro:
This sword was made to be as easy to construct as possible–it has symmetry over two axes, and there generally isn’t a strict order you have to assemble the parts in. The only two exceptions to the rule is that you need to put the Front/BackEyes on the Crossguard before the Bat pieces, as those lock the eyes in place, and you need to put the Stem in AFTER the Blade, as there’s a chance you put it in with the wrong orientation otherwise.
The Peg holes are also designed to be spaced differently depending on which piece they go into, so it’s impossible to line up two pieces that don’t go together.
Overall, you could probably just look at the renders provided in the images, and make sure that every piece you put together either slots in directly somehow or has a Peg attaching them, and you’d be just fine. Just make sure you dry fit everything first, to make sure you indeed have everything together the right way around!
Instructions:
Use 4 of the long Pegs to fit Blade 1 and Blade 2 together, as well as Blade 2 and Blade 3. Before you glue it together, fit in all the various OrangeBack/Front pieces in. I recommend you fit the OrangeBack/Front1 pieces and the OrangeBack/Front3 pieces in first to hold the Blade pieces together, and then finally put the OrangeBack/Front2 pieces in between.
Attach the Front/Back eyes onto the circular pegs found on the Crossguard.
Insert the Blade into the matching hole in the top of the Crossguard, then Slide a long Peg in through the bottom hole into the Blade. MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS BEFORE PUTTING THE STEM IN!
Put the Stem onto the exposed Peg, pushing it all the way through until it is firmly inside the Crossguard.
Slide the Bat pieces in from the sides onto the Crossguard, lining up the bump on the Crossguard with the grooves on the Bat pieces, and the Sword is done!
On to the Sheath. Use two of the flat Pegs to attach Sheath1 to Sheath2, and then use the Left and RightBlood pieces to lock them in place on the sides.
Put the two other flat Pegs in the holes at the end of Sheath2, and then attach BloodPool1 to Sheath2 using the pegs. The Pegs should stick out from BloodPool1
Use the two Square pegs as well as the existing flat pegs to attach BloodPool1 to BloodPool2.
Attach the Left and RightFangs in their corresponding holes at the top of the Sheath1, and your sword is ready to go!
If you want to use the Hanger, print out the three parts, and insert the small peg parts that accompany it into the back.
Drive nails through the two holes, and you're good to hang it up.
Conclusion:
Thanks for checking out my Spooky Sword! It was super fun taking part, especially since, y’know… I’m the creator. And judge. Glad I could get it in just in time for a certain Halloween contest (literally ended the exact second the Pumpkin Jam did), and I hope someone can make this a lovely addition to a Halloween costume!
Of course, if you print this out (whether it be part of a costume or not), I’d love to see you post pics/a make!
And if you have any feedback, I’d be more than happy to hear it, so comment it down below! Hope to see you all next time! Byeee~
CarlThePumpkinMan
