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Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Image 1
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Image 2
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Image 3
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Image 4
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Image 5
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

Ikea Lack table storage remix: sturdier and no bridging

CoenW avatarCoenW

October 23, 2025

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Description

See the original for the right assembly model for the right assembly order.

Screws that I used:

d4x50mm chipboardscrews for the middle vertical connections (2x per block)

d4x30mm chipboardscrews for the countersunk connections (8x per middle block, 4x per corner)

d3,5x16mm ‘universal screw’ for the extra non-countersunk connections (2x per corner)

For mechanical parts I use PETG and  ‘high mechanical strength settings’:

250C nozzle, 255C first layer

0,3mm layer height (variable layer height if you want some of the chamfers/fillets to show up)

3 perimeters

5 top solid layers, 4 bottom solid layers

5% rectilinear infill

default extrusion width of 0,6mm (for a 0,4mm nozzle). External layers 0,45mm

 

The files include the individual step files so you can modify according to your screw head needs.

The .3mf files contain a bed of 7 corners and 4 middle blocks

The corner blocks are modeled in such a way that you can use the lack screws through the 3D print to screw the legs into the table. To do this:

  1. Mount the corner block onto the leg, using all the screws from the sides
  2. Mount the ikea screw in your cordless drill, ensuring your clamp down on it really well or make an adapter
  3. Heat the end of the screw that will go into the 3D print using a torch ( a culinary torch works fine). Make sure it's hot enough to melt plastic, but definitely not glowing. You can see the tint go darker a little bit if it's hot enough.
  4. Quickly screw in the screw into the 3D print and leg, ensuring that it the middle part sinks into the 3D print slightly (flush with the surface)
  5. Unmount the screw from your cordless drill
  6. Remove any molten plastic that might have been pushed out by the threads

See the before/after pictures of what this looks like.

If you do this, orienting the corner pieces on the lack table can become more difficult: as you want the corners to align the the table corners you might end up with the screw not fully ‘in’. I've forced all screws to go in all the way, and then the corners to align. This takes quite some strength at times, but so far nothing has broken by doing this.

Hope these are helpful modifications. Good printing/storing!

 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

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