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TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 3D Printer File Image 1
TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 3D Printer File Image 2
TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 3D Printer File Image 3
TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 3D Printer File Image 4
TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

TronXY XY-100 / iMakr STARTT Adapter plate for Raspberry Pi and BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0

TVHS avatarTVHS

November 17, 2025

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Description

For an upcoming projecting I needed to upgrade our old TronXY XY-100 (also known as an iMakr STARTT) to be able to run Klipper so it needed to have it's original brain pulled out and replaced. I made this adapter board to sit in place of the original melzi 2.0 V5 board and allow the printer to accommodate a @RaspberryPi and a BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 board as a cheap way to get klipper running on it. It also accommodates a standard LM2596S DC/DC converter board of the type you can get on ebay or aliexpress to allow the BTT board to power the Pi. Note that there seems to be a communications issue between BTT SKR Mini E3's and Raspberry Pi 3 boards so I advise the use of raspberry pi 4 with this design.

The adapter plate has heat-set inserts to fix down all the boards as well as plenty of cable grips and cable-tie bases around the edge to help keep the wiring tidy. It's arranged so that you can still get to both SD card slots with the plate fully installed to make firmware upgrades easier.

You'll need the adapter plate (obviously!), some M3 and M2.5 heat-set inserts, and the new Pi, BTT, and LM2596S boards. Check all the connections from the printer to the BTT board as I found the fan polarity had to be reversed and the endstops changed from 3-pin to 2-pin. 

Print Recommendations

I printed this in silk PLA because it's what I had handy but I'd recommend the use of a glass-fiber reinforced filament. Wall thicknesses should be at least 1.5mm to make sure the heat-set inserts have something to grip into

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

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