October 31, 2025
Description
At full size the sword measures 950mm from tip to pommel. It is held together by three 8mm dowels, and seven 3mm pins. The model is pre-sectioned into nine parts but, an uncut version it also available.
For the dowels I used carbon fiber tubes, as they are straighter and lighter than wood.
Note: Unlike all the swords I have built before this both the sides are geometrically identical. I have uploaded three sections for each blade labeled accordingly, but their outer shape and alignment pin locations are the same.
Clean up all the parts before assembly and test fit all parts before gluing.
Use the 300mm dowel and one 3mm pin to glue Center, and Handle together using super glue then set that assembly aside to dry. Using one of the 500mm dowels and two 3mm pins glue together Truth 1, Truth 2, and Truth 3 again set this aside to dry. Do the same with the three parts of Justice. When all three of these subassemblies are dry use the remaining two 3mm dowels and the Tip Alignment Jig to complete the full assembly of the sword. This method will make it easier to keep the blades parallel.
I filled in the seams between parts using superglue, then smooth when out with 180 grit sand paper. Then, I coated the sword in XTC3D to smooth out the layer lines. This method will give a better surface finish then automotive filler primer but it takes longer to sand. After leveling out and drips in the epoxy or areas where the details got filled in, I carefully sanded the sword smooth with 320 grit sand paper.
The first coat of paint I used was gloss white; no masking was needed as I painted the entire sword. For the next step I covered the blades and pommel with silver Rub’n Buff. When buffing the surface to a shine I intentionally worked through to the base white layers on the edges of the blade. I did this more toward the tips and less toward the hilt. Next, I used acrylic inks to the blades applying it with a damp cloth and not a brush. I then painted the handle in brown acrylics, and weathers the sword with brown and black washes, plus some sliver highlights. The final step was to coat the sword in a clear gloss enamel.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial