January 29, 2026
Description
UPDATE 29/01/2026
Added STEP files and updated the "Wide mouth with fin" model with 2 fillets.
UPDATE 06/11/2025
Added models to fit 5015 fans with wide mouth, like the stock one.
One model is basically as the stock housing but with reduced volume of the ducts and minor shape change.
The other model has a “fin” to split the airflow, similar to the regular mouth version. I don't think that is necessary for the wide mouth version but I included both anyway.
I only have the stock fan as a wide mouth for reference, but it should fit other fans too.
Be aware that I made this because someone asked, I don't have any better wide mouth fan to try it with at the moment of posting this.
Please let me know if you try that and if you feel the fin has any use or any other impressions :)
Even tho I like to print slow and good, I felt the Q2 cooling was a bit undersized.. so I improved it with a new fan and an inner redesign of the cooling fan housing.
I didn't want to make a major change so I managed to get an improvement while mantaining the original design and compatibility with the rest of the covers of the toolhead.
Needless to say, you can integrate this improved version of the cooling fan housing with all my designs for the Q2 toolhead that you can find HERE.
In the page you can also find all the instructions needed to replace each part of the toolhead, including the cooling fan housing.
Anyway, even tho there is much room for improvement, as the airflow is not perfectly even on the sides, I think the difference is still pretty noticeable and I thought it was worth it to share a base release:
All the test were obviously done with the same settings. I also wanted to be as “default” as possible so I always used a generic pla profile with the 0.2 standard profile. Even when I bumped everything up by 150% it still looked better than with the stock cooling. Oh, the results you see are with the door and lid closed and 40ish chamber temp :)
Be aware that you will likely have to retune your fan speeds for certain work, depending on the power of the new fan. If I find a general “rule” I will make sure to update :)
Some background:
I tried a few variants of both the default duct and a new design I created from scratch but it was still not getting much better with the stock 5015 fan.
I decided to get a new fan but didn't really feel like testing my luck with random aliexpress “high power” fans. I went with the most powerful version of the 5015 honeybadger as it's a fan well known for its power and performance.
You don't need to buy a honeybadger specifically as the 5015 fan design it's pretty standard, but I highly recommend it.
You can buy them from Fabreeko or from 3DO. 24v 9200 rpm with 4 wires.
On Fabreeko they also offer a wide mouth version with more CFM. Pressure is the same and that's what's important so it shouldn't change much.. but the wide mouth allow for the airflow to reach the left duct more easily, it could be worth to try. Shipping was too high for me from Fabreeko so I couldn't test it. If I get the chance to try one, I will include a version to fit it.
In order to install the honeybadger (or your fan) you will have to solder the proper connector that's used in the Q2 - JST PH 2.0 4Pin.
You can cut the stock fan and solder its connector to the badger but I didn't want to ruin it so I ordered some connectors with pre-crimped wires like THIS for example. You don't need 22 AWG wires like the one in the example, thinner is better.
The honeybadger specifically has inverted order of the wires, I can't tell for other fans, so make sure you check for the correct pin order before you solder! You should be able to check what wire is what by lifting the fan label a bit, like you can see here:
If you want to see the orientation of the honeybadger with the proper wire order and the connector soldered, this is mine. I always suggest to check yourself tho.
Once your fan is ready, you can snap it in the new housing and put the lid back on.
Remember to check my toolhead cover sets page for instructions about changing the toolhead covers, included the housing, and other precious tips!
You need to print it at least in ASA, especially the lid, or better! If you print high temperature materials often, consider an even better alternative to ASA. I use PBT Pro for mine and it's been good.
Please don't go easy on this, you risk to hit your Z screws caps. You can't use the original LID for this, as the 5015 position has changed.
If you don't have the magnets you can run it without the front cover with no issue.
At this point, plug the fan back into the toolhead board and mount everything back.
I added a .3mf file with my pbt pro profile and the pieces placed as I printed them. I prefer printing the housing in this way because the pockets for the fan and the lid will be printed better and guarantee a good fit (you want the lid to sit flat) while moving any defects caused by untuned supports to the part that will be hidden anyway.
I will update the design and also add a custom duct in the future.
I felt the improvement I've got was worth a base release :)
Please share your results and opinions, I'm always happy to discuss and improve!
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
7