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Core One: Power Switch to front Display 3D Printer File Image 1
Core One: Power Switch to front Display 3D Printer File Image 2
Core One: Power Switch to front Display 3D Printer File Image 3
Core One: Power Switch to front Display 3D Printer File Image 4
Core One: Power Switch to front Display 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Core One: Power Switch to front Display 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Core One: Power Switch to front Display 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Core One: Power Switch to front Display 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

Core One: Power Switch to front Display

Stefan avatarStefan

November 3, 2025

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Description

As I do not want to climb behind the wall standing printer to reach the power switch on the PSU I made a modification to move the switch to the front.

One has to open the PSU and remove the power switch which is clicked in there. Unplug the 4 wire-shoes and do not forget to note which cable uses which position.
I took two cables with each 2 wires in it. But I would recommend to use 4 seperate wires (2,5mm2) in different colours as they bend easier and to not use to much room. You also need each 4 cable shoes to be mounted on the new wires.
Lead the 4 cables theough the small replacement part and click it in the PSU and replace the cover on the PSU.
Then I lead the four wirde under the bottom plate together with all the other wired to the hole in the front where the display sits.
Click in the 4 wires in the switch, click in the switch to the bottom LCD holder and mount the parts together as with the original manual.
The extra cables need also some room on the backside to fit under the cover mounted between PSU and EL-Box. Also the covers for PSU and EL-Box had the be modified for the screws sitting on the cable cover, use M3x18 instead M3x10 there.

I use my own display cover from my MK4S which unfortunately prevents the Core One door from closing. So I modified the LCD holder to be mounted 5mm lower as the original. I also use different feet as the additional 5mm space need some more room under the printer.

But now I have a conveniont place to switch on the printer. And it is very easy to build it back to original as I made everything with cable shoes and did not solder anything.

License:

GNU General Public License v2.0

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