V2 - 04/11/21
I haven't printed this new version yet. Updates are:
- Added slit in the screw poles in the main body to add a nut, so it keeps the lid and body together much tighter without straining the plastic too much.
- Made walls slightly thinner so it can be printed quicker.
- Made the hole for the ESP8266's micro USB port slightly larger and aligned it better so it required less post processing.
This is a case for a Nodemcu 12-E ESP8266 with a TFT ILI9341 2.8" screen. The ESP8266 sits on a 4,5 x 3,5 x 0,85 cm breadboard glued to the bottom of the back part, just to let it sit firmly. I used jumper wires to connect the microcontroller and the screen: I cut one end and soldered it onto the pin of the ESP8266 and attached the other jumper end to the screen. Mine also has a DS3231 roaming freely around.
How to print:
- Front: if you are sure that your bed is completely flat, unlike my Ender 3's bed, you could get away with printing it face down, therefore eliminating the need for any kind of support. If your bed dips or has a high spot you might want to print it face up, therefore needing supports on the inside. I recommend using tree supports as it cuts on the time, the filament used and they're also much easier to remove. Even when printed face up you will see it bows on the bottom, but it won't be quite as noticeable as if the front were to bow.
The STL is oriented face down.
- Back: print this face down, as it comes in the STL.This will require supports (use tree supports for the aforementioned reasons).
Read print settings for more.
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Resolution:
0.2mm layer height, 0.3mm first layer
Infill:
Notes:
These settings should allow for quick wall and bottom/top printing, since it adds no useless layers.
Category: Electronics
goTVm
