November 17, 2025
Description
IMORTANT:
This PFAB unit is designed primarily to work with the following toolhead:
https://www.printables.com/model/1144586-ldo-apogee-toolhead-mod-for-installing-ke-hotend-o
The original PFAB unit will remain up on my Printables page so those using the v1 KE bracket still have a usable nozzle cleaner.
You can use the V3 PFAB arm on the V1 PFAB body if you want to use the improved arm on the older PFAB unit. The Z height of the PFAB arm on V3 has been adjusted slightly so expect the fitment on a V1 PFAB body to be imperfect, but potentially still workable.
What's changed?
- The silicone and PTFE nozzle cleaners have their Z heights re-adjusted to improve nozzle cleaning
- Improved PFAB body for more rigidity to prevent the cleaner unit dropping below the nozzle when the PFAB arm is pushed to its raised position
- Improved PFAB arm which makes use of a pair of bearings for better longevity, less friction, and better alignment when the print head is in the purge position.
PARTS NEEDED TO BUILD THIS PFAB:
To create a non-stick layer to help the PFAB release a completed purge:
Aluminium kitchen foil
Super-glue (cyanoacrylate)
— Crucial parts to build the PFAB: —
2x MF63ZZ ball bearings
M3x10 cap head screw: x2
M3x5mm cap head screw: 1
M3x25 shoulder screw: 1
Tension spring (0.5mm wire thickness, 4.1mm OD, 18mm free length): 1
Bambulab A1 silicone nozzle cleaner brush: 1 (cut in half)
PTFE tube (3mm ID, 4mm OD): 21mm length x1
PTFE tube (3mm ID, 4mm OD) ~0.5mm length x1 (used as a washer)
Build procedure is the same as the V1 PFAB unit apart from needing to press the bearings into the PFAB arm and the addition of a 0.5mm thick (or thereabouts) PTFE shim for friction reduction (see images).
Pressing the bearings into the PFAB should be possible by hand or with pliers, although two washers, an M3 bolt and nut can also do a decent job of both pressing the bearings in and making sure they're well aligned.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution
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