Festive Garden Lights

I was fed up of replacing batteries for my solar lights so started converting them to 12v, then I realized that I could make them allot better with colored LED's and WLED. 

The diffusers improve the look and are very visible in indirect daylight as well as night.

With Christmas coming, I dramatically increased the number and designed some simple WLED controllers to tap into my 12v garden lighting as it can be easier fit more controllers than run long wires. I have several patterns as WLED playlists that cycle every 20 seconds.

My LED's are 5v, coming from the WLED controller, but any voltage is OK as long as you set up your controller for it.

In my profile, there is (will be) the info for easy WLED controllers.

All parts were printed in white PETG.

There are a few types here:

HPM Mackay bollards look good when colored and have a nice diffuser, but can be hard to find.

Arlec 'Garden Path Lights' are only $3 to $3.50 from Bunnings and work very well with one LED.

Click solar lights are available in black or silver from Bunnings for only $2 each.

Instructions:

For all types, I used a flexible 4 core cable from the LED (s) to the inside of the shaft through a hole at the side towards the top of the shaft. LED power and data in/out was joined adjacent the strip (s). This cable extended a few inches from the bottom. A cable tie can help with strain relief.

I had incoming and outgoing cables to make daisy chaining easy. Positive and Negative of all cables together with the Positive and Negative of all LED strips. Data from incoming cable to data In of LED strips (back of arrow). Data from outgoing cable to data out of LED strips (tip of arrow). I soldered the cables and used heat shrink, but tightly twisting and taping would probably see Christmas out. The flexible cable was then doubled back on itself and pushed up into the shaft with both the incoming and outgoing cables. I cut 5mm (approx) slots on opposite side of the mounting spike and pushed it into the bottom of the shaft. Both the cables could be run into the head, up to you.

The End result is 2 cables entering the bottom of the shaft out of sight and the small flexible cable going out of the shaft, past the clear section into the bottom of the lid. I put black heat shrink over the visible part of the top cable because I only had white cable.

HPM:

Stick 2 or 3 addressable LED segments on the flat sides of the mounts, preferably closer to the (finished) bottom. Wire all LED segments data out to the next data in.

Remove the existing lamp holder and cable fitting, then insert the printed and terminated assembly in their place - done.

Arlec:

Use 1 addressable LED segment and solder flexible cable (s) to Positive, Negative, Data in and Data out as per photo.

Remove PCB, battery and battery terminals (keep screw). Put empty LED holder against bottom and use as a template for 2 x 3mm holes. Also drill a hole as required for cable (s) - see photo.

Carefully bend the wires relatively close to the LED (good idea to firmly hold LED over solder joints) and bend outwards. Fit LED into mount. It will stay there without any glue. Mount holder and wire as above or as you like.

There is a model for a round Cable Tie holder. It is screwed where the PCB was and uses the same screw.

Note that the generic mounts can also be used for more LED's if you like.

Click:

Use 1 addressable LED segment and solder flexible cable (s) to Positive, Negative, Data in and Data out.

LED hole will probably have to either be enlarged slightly or corners cut into it. A hole is also needed for the cable (s).

Put LED against hole and use printed holder to keep in position.

Wire as above or as you like.

Generic: 

Either the same as Arlec or using other LED holders. If using other holders, self drilling or machine screws will hold it to the base.

Again, wire as above or as you like.

Enjoy.