SCX30 Real beadlock wheels for stock size (18mm) tires

Inner Ring has been updated to make mounting substantially easier.  Also the wheels are (and always were) compatible with Injora brass inner beadlock rings.  Not to be confused with their inner wheel weights.

[Rear wheel half has been updated for brass wheel weights and knuckles, download "SCX30BeadlockWheel2V2forWeightsAndKnuckles" if you're fitting to non stock parts]

After not seeing any functional beadlocks available for the SCX30 I decided to make my own.  These will fit stock size tires (18mm), and allow you to hold the tire on the wheel without gluing.  If you're not familiar with how beadlocks on small scale RC cars work, I recommend you look up instructions for similar looking beadlocks for the SCX24.  I also included a regular friction fit version of this wheel that is for your spare tire. so it doesnt add too much extra weight.  This wheel doesnt have the cutout to run as a regular wheel because the offset is fixed so it doesnt stick out too far on the body, but its mainly designed to work with my own bodies.

The beadlock function is pretty simply, each half of the wheel has a lip that pushes against the outside bead of each side of the tire.  There is a ring that goes in the middle that floats.  Once you tighten the two wheel halves together each side of the ring pushes against the inside bead of each side of the tire.  So it sandwiches the bead together and grips the tire.  Pretty cool, especially at this scale.

The hardware you'll need to assemble this is likely something you'll have laying around if you loved the SCX24 as well.  These wheels are all held together with the short screws that were common on SCX24s.  So you will need:

(16) M1.4 x 5 allen or button head screws

You can technically get away with only 8 screws, and just use 2 screws per wheel.  But the additional screws hold the tire better, and help add weight down low.  I also highly recommend you get:

(2) M1.4 x 10 allen or button head screws  (these screws are optional and for assembly only)

To assemble:

1. Get a pair of both wheel halves (front and back) and put a ring in between both of them. 
2. Take your two long 10mm screws and use them to line up the holes.  The extra length will give you much more room to find the holes and start the threading.  You WILL want to do this, and steal this trick for all scales of beadlock assembly.
3. Once you get the two long screws threaded in a couple turns, stuff this wheel assembly through the hole in your tire.  Get the ring seated inside the tire, and then lightly bring the two wheels halves together, you can gently hold it between your thumb and index finger here to inspect the bead.  Make sure everything is seated right at this point or you'll likely have the bead come loose here later. 
4. Grab 2 of your shorter screws and thread them in a few turns.  Once you notice they are threaded in you take out the two long screws and replace them with two short screws, and lightly thread them in. 
5. VERY IMPORTANT:  Now gradually go around in a circle tightening each screw a few turns.  if you don't do this and tighten one bolt too much you risk breaking the lip of the wheel if you printed it in the direction I think you did. 
6. Once you're done tightening now you can inspect your tire and give it a few light tugs to make sure that the bead is fully grabbed.

These wheels weight a little more than a gram over the stock wheels with hardware.  But this is also a nice time to grab some solder and wrap it around the ring of the wheel before you put it in the tire.  I did this to mine and added 5 grams of solder PER WHEEL, and then cut the tire foam to accommodate.  These wheels are also fully vented without having to poke holes in your tires.

These wheels also will poke out 2.1mm more than the stock wheels, enough to get some extra performance and room for wide tires, but not too much to look ridiculous.

So enjoy these, and keep an eye out for some more SCX30 stuff.