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Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 1
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 2
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 3
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 4
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 5
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 6
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 7
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 8
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 9
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 10
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 11
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Image 12
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
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Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 7
Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 8
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Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 10
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Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 12

Rotating Stand for Core One+/L (or any other printer)

fotrik avatarfotrik

January 7, 2026

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Description

Depending on your workshop setup it can be difficult to access your printer from the side or back. Especially for Prusa Core One you need to access the filament on the side or filtration on the back quite often. I started with 40 cm rotating TV stand but it was a bit wobbling during the print. Then added legs in the corners and finally replaced the TV stand with more robust own solution. The wheels inside legs are in fact ball bearings, so the printer doesn't wobble more than like standing directly on your desk. I hope that you will like the final solution like I do.

Update 2026/01/07: Added optional rotation arrest. The stand is not moving without it, so I am not using it but it was printed and tested for functionality.

Setup

You need a wooden desk (for Core One/+/L 47 cm x 52 cm or bigger) one rotating stand (Tocna-?????.stl), four or eight legs (Noha.stl) and optionally covering caps for each leg (Noha-zaslepka.stl). Four legs, one in each corner, are enough but if you want to be sure about stability like me, add another one in the middle of each side.

For optional rotation arrest you need one piece of Aretace2.stl and one piece of Aretace3.stl.

Material Needed

1x wooden desk, for Core One/+/L 47 cm x 52 cm or bigger, I used Ikea KOMPLEMENT 50x58

Depending on number of legs and slicer config about 300 g to 500 g of PETG filament. Or PCCF if you don't think that PETG is sturdy enough.

For rotating stand:

  • 1x axial ball bearing 51109 or 51111, for Czech makers: ZKL 51111A NF

  • 1x M6x16 screw with collar or regular screw with washer, the total height of head and washer must not exceed 5.5 mm, for Czech makers here

  • 1x M6 nut with securing rubber ring, for Czech makers here

  • 4x 4x20 screws for wood, for Czech makers here or here

  • 4x rubber legs, 4 mm or optionally 2.5 mm thick, for Czech makers here

For each leg (multiply by 4 or 8 legs):

  • 2x ball bearing 626 or 626-2Z, for Czech makers ZKL 626-2ZR

  • 1x DIN912 M6x40, for Czech makers here

  • 1x M6 nut with securing rubber ring, for Czech makers here (same as for rotating stand)

  • 4x 4x20 screws for wood, for Czech makers here or here (same as for rotating stand)

For optional rotation arrest:

  • Another rubber leg 4 mm thick, for Czech makers here

Print Instructions

Use attached 3mf files or here are my settings recommended:

  • PETG filament (on the pictures Prusament PETG Galaxy Black), or someting with CF if you want to have the legs even harder

  • 0.4 mm nozzle, model optimized for 0.2 mm layer

  • 6 perimeters, Gyroid infill 30%

  • "Supports on bed" needed for the rotating stand, at least for the center hole, no supports for the legs if printed upside down

  • Aretace2.stl for optional rotation arrest - print upside down and use organic supports. No supports for Aretace3.stl. For details see the 3mf files.

Building Instructions

Insert M6 nut and 2x 626 ball bearing in each leg. Do not fasten the screw too tight, about half round back from the maximum, the bearings must rotate freely.

Insert M6 nut in the top part of the rotating stand, insert also top ring and middle ball ring of the axial ball bearing in it. Don't mix top and bottom part of the ball bearing! The bearing is uni-directional, that means it can carry weight only in one direction. The top ring can be identiefied by 2 mm smaller center hole. Insert bottom ring of the axial bearing in the bottom part of the rotating stand. If it doesn't go fully inside, check if you didn't swap the top (smaller hole) and bottom (larger hole) rings. Insert rubber legs - 4 mm thick in larger holes or 2.5 mm thick in the smaller holes.

Draw lines on the bootom side of the wooden desk. Exact location of the legs is not important but the relative position and the angle to the center rotating stand is. The lines will help you with it.

The leg wheels must be orthogonal and symmetrical to the drawn line to form a virtual circle centered with the rotating stand. Carefully center also the rotating stand, you should see all the lines crossing inside the center hole.

Attach all legs and top part of the rotating stand to the wooden desk. Only then attach the bottom part of the rotating stand. Do not fasten the center screw too much, quarter to half round from maximum, the stand must rotate freely.

Optionally attach the rotation arrest at the front side between legs with another 4 mm think rubber rectangle. The lever should be pointing outside for easy access. You can use a little drop of glue on the lever but it's not necessary. Be careful not to glue the lever with the shell.

Turn the stand up and put your printer on it. Have fun!

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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