December 28, 2025
Description
Barrina makes some great inexpensive plant lights (you find them here on their website, and also on amazon) but their mounting options are mostly designed for "straight down" placement in grow racks. Most of my plants are on high shelves, and these lights also make good task lights, so I designed these fixtures to hold them anywhere I want to put some honeycomb storage wall (you could also just thread the keyholes onto regular screws or drywall anchors to put them anywhere).
I printed using the 0.2 Structural preset, with adaptive cubic infill. This should be plenty for most use cases, but feel free to go to 3 perimeters if you want some extra strength.
I recommend using a higher-temp filament like PETG or ASA. However, looking at the thermals from lights that have been on for 10+ hours suggests that you could probably still get by with regular PLA:
Connect the two axle pieces using the hexagonal pin. There is no need for any glue, but make sure the seam goes together as closely as possible.
Hold the base with the front(cut out) facing up, and insert the assembled axle flat-side up with the front (the side with detents) facing toward you at the bottom of the hole. Push it all the way in, and then rotate it until the back side of the axle sits flush with the top of the base. Clearances are tight, so don't worry too much if the tip of the front axle scrapes a bit as you push it through the hole. It should look like this:
Next, add the base-insert. You may need to wiggle the axle a bit until the insert sits flush. There is a screw hole on the bottom that will accept an m3 screw 8-12m long. You don't technically need it, but the detents on the light work better if you add one.
Attach the puck holder to the axle using two button head m3 screws 6-8mm long.
Note: The lights have different shapes for the sides with power in and out. These are labeled on the puck holder, so make sure you install it to match the orientation of your power cords.
I attached my lights with zip ties, but you can also attach the magnetic plates supplied by Barrina if you want something less permanent.
The keyhole openings on the bottom of the light fixtures should fit most drywall anchor screws but they were designed specifically for M5 screws using my HSW Locking inserts, three of which hold tightly enough to easily secure these on my ceiling:
Add some zip tie inserts to keep the power cords organized.
If you want to take your setup to the next level, I can confirm that the dimmer function on these lights works by lowering voltage (not by PWM), so the Shelly Dimmer2 modules work great to control these lights (prices on Dimmer2 seem to have gone up, and it looks like there is a Dimmer3 available outside of the US, so these may be due for a product refresh soon).
As with most of my models, you can find the parametric source here at Onshape. You can use Onshape's free account to derive any of these parts for your own remixes. This particular model also includes a good mockup of the Orbgrow lights that you can use to design something new completely from scratch.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike