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Solderless TPU Breadboards 3D Printer File Image 1
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Solderless TPU Breadboards

Bill Kobertz avatarBill Kobertz

January 15, 2026

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Description

Solderless TPU Breadboards are a modular set of solderless breadboard parts that can be encased into final electronics projects with minimal to no gluing.  The design takes advantage of TPU's flexibility to hold the wires together without the need for soldering.  There are five components to the set.  1/13/26 Update: Standard and traditional 0.1" (2.54 mm) breadboards and bases to hold them were added to accomodate standard electronic parts (e.g. nano arduino boards, op-amps, etc.).  Currently updating cases and lids 2 and 4 to accomodate the six rows and a USB micro port. 

Bases:

  • Base_MM: The starting base.

  • Base_MF: Base extensions (there are lids and cases that can fit up to four total bases).

  • Base: A Base with no tabs.

  • Base_smm: The starting base that accomodates the standard and traditional breadboards.

  • Base_smf: Base extensions that accomodates the standard and traditional breadboard. 

Breadboards:

  • BB_Full: An all pin breadboard.

  • BB_Full_Cap: A breadboard with capacitor holders.

  • BB_Half_Cap: A breadboard with half the rows with capacitor holders.

  • BB_Standard: A standard breadboard with 0.1" spacing.

  • BB_Traditional: A breadboard with an isolated row for power and 18 columns that can be electrically connected.  

Cases:

  • Case_1: Case for one breadboard.

  • Case_2: Case for two breadboards.

  • Case_3: Case for three breadboards.

  • Case_4: Case for four breadboards.

  • Case_2st: Case for two standard and traditional breadboards.

  • Case_2st_usb: Same case above with a hole to accomodate nano arduino boards with a micro USB port.

Roofs:

  • Roof: Roof with breakable indentations to run wires into the breadboard from the top.

  • Roof_LDR: Roof with an opening for a light dependent resistor.

Lids:

  • Lid_1: Lid for one breadboard.

  • Lid_2: Lid for two breadboards.

  • Lid_3: Lid for three breadboards.

  • Lid_4: Lid for four breadboards.

  • Lid_2_usbhole: Lid for two breadboards with a micro USB hole.

  • Lid_2_usbdent: Lid for two breadboards with a indentation to cover a USB port.

Print Instructions:

  • TPU 95A (DuramiC 3D): Any color can be used, but it’s easier to see the breadboard holes in white.

  • Resolution: 0.2 mm

  • 15% Grid

  • Sliced with Bambu Studio using the generic TPU settings.

Parts:

  • 22 Gauge hookup wire solid

  • 22 Gauge buss wire (or you can strip insulated 22 Gauge hookup wire)

  • Sim card ejector (useful for widening holes and punching holes in the cases and roofs)

Assembly: 

1. BreadBoard: Only the Bases and Breadboards need to be printed for a functional breadboard.  For a traditional breadboard, print out either the Base (with no tabs) or as many Base_MF bases as needed.  To utilize the cases and lids to create a finished project, print one Base_MM and up to three Base_MF bases.

To clear out any vertical holes in the Breadboards and Bases that sealed during the print, use a Sim card ejector to gently poke through the vertical holes. To improve connectivity for any voltage and ground breadboard rows, thread 22 Gauge buss wire through the horizontal hole and bend the wire back underneath the breadboard such that the wire runs the length of the breadboard twice.  After wiring, snap the breadboards into the bases.  It takes several attempts (and a pair of pliers) to get all 12 snaps to lock in place.  The multivalent nature of the snaps holds the two pieces tightly together, but they can be easily pried apart using a putty knife.

Unlike a traditional breadboard, the columns cannot be electrically connected.  To make connections, insert the wires and legs of the components into the same hole.  The holes can accommodate 2 - 3 wires.  It is best to insert the flimsier legs (e.g. resistor legs) first.

To make the columns electrically connected in the traditional breadboard, fold hookup wire in half and insert the tips of the folded wire into the hole.  Use a sim card ejector to spread the wires apart to make it easier to insert wires and legs. 

2. Finalization (encasement):  To incorporate the circuit into a project, print out a Roof (or Roof_LDR) for each base and the correct size Case and Lid to encase one to four breadboards.  Each case has two sets of perforated holes on the ends (1) to connect a power source to the voltage and ground breadboard rows and (2) to connect the output to LEDs and other low voltage devices. 

To improve connectivity, pry off the breadboards from the bases using a putty knife and bend the legs and wires into channels of each row.  Re-snap the bases into place to secure the solderless connections.  Using a Sim card ejector, break through the holes in the case where the input and output wires will go.  It’s easier to slide the input wires using the lower set of holes because there is more room in the channel.  Slide the case over the breadboard and insert insulated 22-gauge hookup wire (strip off ~ 25 mm) into the input and output holes.  Snap on the roof(s) and slide the lid on to hold everything in place.  There are also hole perforations in the roof to insert hookup wires to the breadboard.

3. Notes: Although the TPU holds everything in place, for final installation, a little glue in each input and output hole before inserting the hookup wire will prevent the wires from being accidentally pulled out of the breadboard.

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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