January 13, 2026
Description
This will only cover how to print and mount the hardware needed inside this case.
Everything about the adapter and how to use it can be found here (credit goes to the creator Sonik): https://github.com/sonik-br/ddgo_usb_adapt
This case houses a Raspberry Pi Pico, a USB port, and a PS1/PS2 controller connector that is needed to make full use of the adapter. Unfortunately, I didn’t use the most standardized hardware inside. I used what I had lying around. I wanted a somewhat compact design, with the cables going vertically and nothing sticking out from the sides. The Body have a QR-code on the bottom that takes you to the web URL to config the pico.
Hardware requirements:
4 × M3 13 mm flathead screws (to screw the case together)
Raspberry Pi Pico (no headers)
USB port (desoldered from an old adapter)
PS1/PS2 female connector (taken from a PS1/PS2 extension cable)
A small piece of transparent filament (to illuminate the on-board LED)
Super glue or epoxy glue
Print settings:
Lid and Body require supports (see images how I printed them).
Body have a QR-code on the bottom, add both to your slicer, center them so the QR-code aligns with the cutout in the Body, and choose another filament for it. If you don't have a AMS (like me), you can use this method.
I've included a Body without the QR-code if you don't want that.
Printed on a Bambu Lab P1S. Tolerances may be different on other printers, so experiment to find the correct settings.
Build instructions:
When everything is printed, start by placing the Pico board inside the Body and snapping the PS1/PS2 connector into its place. You will need to break open the outer casing of the PS1/PS2 connector and use only the bare female connector. Mount the USB port and, to secure it better, use some epoxy or super glue.
Now solder all the wires from the PS1/PS2 connector and the USB port to the Pico, and add the resistors while you’re at it.
For the Lid, take a small piece of transparent filament, cut it to length, and slide it into the smaller hole at the back so it aligns with the on-board LED on the Pico. If you don’t have filament, you can leave it empty (the LED will still be visible), or you can use a glue gun and squeeze a small amount of glue into the hole to improve illumination. I haven’t tried this myself, but feel free to experiment.
Flip the Lid upside down and place the Button in its hole. Take the Body, hold it upside down and slide the two parts together, then screw them tight.
Now enjoy Densha de GO! with all types of train controllers on different platforms and consoles.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial