Yaesu FT-710 Anderson Power Pole Conversion 3D Printer File Image 1

Yaesu FT-710 Anderson Power Pole Conversion 3D Printer File Image 2

Yaesu FT-710 Anderson Power Pole Conversion 3D Printer File Image 3

Yaesu FT-710 Anderson Power Pole Conversion 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1

Yaesu FT-710 Anderson Power Pole Conversion

NW6U

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Description

This is essentially the same as ELUMSPE's model... I modified the outermost face of this to fit the FT-710 specifically. I have NOT tested this on a FT-991a, or the FT-DX10. But, it should work IN THEORY.

There is a small chance this *Might work on the Icom IC-7300, I am told it uses the same connector. May need minor modification.

Please go give the original creator a like, earn them some points on here for the hard(er) work they performed on the original model.

-NW6U

>> This mod will very likely void any warranty! <<

>> Modify the radio at your own RISK! None of us assume responsibility if you damage your own equipment performing this modification<<

LETS BEGIN!

You will need to open the TOP half of the radio case (FT-710) in order to gain access to the interior space.

To remove the white connector, there are two locks. Looking at the back of the radio, these locks are at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions (far left and right). To unlock these, use some needle nose pliers and pinch them together and push inward (into the radio) gently. While holding the first released lock side, do the pliers on the remaining side, and it will come loose into the radio. BE CAREFUL. Sensitive electronics inside...

Now you've got the white connector loose, yay! You should release the pin connectors from the housing, it will make it so much simpler to make new connections for the later steps.

To release these from the housing, you will need to press centrally (toward the horizontal of the cross shape) on the plastic retaining piece with a very small flat-blade electronics screwdriver. This will release the tension holding the pin in. I've tried my best to show this process with the images below:

Got that step down and ready to move on? Good...

Before we move any further you need to decide on how you want to make the new interface. Your options are to pre-crimp the Anderson PP30A/45A blade to a 12AWG wire, and then make a Y and crimp a ferrule and solder the joint to the two wires coming out of the PCB.

-OR-

Cut some bare wire off of all four (2-red/2-black) and use a PP45A blade. Using a PP45 blade -*Should*- make the AWG large enough to accept both of the PCB wires into the blade directly, without making a Y. This would be closer to the Yaesu installation.

NEITHER OF THESE methods have been tested, YET. - I am going to choose the 2 direct into a 45A blade vs the 2-to-1 then blade.

Okay, you chose one of the above methods, now its time to use the 3D prints you made. With your powerpole assembly all ready to go, you're going to want to slide the "Anderson_In_FT-710v1" adapter over the assembly first. This way all you have to do is slide it up once you've inserted the powerpole pair into the Yaesu slot.

Image of the pre-installation of the "IN" 3D printed part:

NOTE: Orientation of the plugs/connectors matter. The metal inside the connector should be UP and opposite of the screw hole.

You are also going to need to install the M3 nut in the rear of this piece. If for some reason it is loose, a tiny dab of superglue/CA glue will work wonders. Don't glue the threads.

Now that you've done this step, it is time to start installing it FROM THE INSIDE.

In the image below, you'll probably notice its not easy to get it to fit through the opening. This is normal, not only is this normal, its a desired effect. If you notice, there are two "arch" cutouts on either side of the plastic Anderson connector housings. These arches are going to slide perfectly into the metal of the back housing.

You want to bring these paired connectors in at an angle, and get the metal to start sliding into one side, and then gently work the other side over the metal. You want this Anderson connector pair to be on the UPPER slot, not the lower. I had to file my "arches" a little bit to widen them.

In the Image below, you can see how the metal is used to hold the connector in place and prevent the slip of the connector either in OR out.

Finally, you're ready to finish up!

Slide the inside 3D printed part toward the metal, and over the Anderson connector, it should sit flush against the metal. Be careful when sliding this, you do not want to damage the PCB or components on the board.

Next you're going to want to use the Anderson_Out_FT-710v1 "OUT" 3D printed part:

Gently screw in the 12mm M3 screw and snug up the assembly.

TEST before you power up and close up your case! Digital multimeter to test for continuity and resistance would be sufficient. Then make sure you're paying attention to polarity. It's a mistake that could cost you your radio.

If all good, reassemble the radio and start using your more convenient, and broadly used Anderson connection.