Articulated lamp

1.  The lampshade is thick enough to dim and direct the light. In the photo, it looks translucent, but it is not; only the white collar has the effect of scattering the light beam. However, if you make it in another color, such as a cool color or black, the lampshade will be less bright. Nevertheless, the effect is very pleasant. I use a 4-watt LED bulb with approximately 300 lumens.

2.  I have attached a photo of the type of microswitch I used to make the lamp switch. I removed the metal blade and made a switch assembly in which I mounted the microswitch. The connection to the electrical wires is made by direct contact, they are not soldered, and the lever for switching on and off is equipped with a cam that activates the microswitch by rotating. A simple, practical, and functional design. The bottom cover is secured with an M3 screw after inserting a hot nut into the slot in the body. YOU CAN USE A CHEAP SWITCH TO KEEP THINGS SIMPLE.

3.  The spherical coupling consists of a 6-petal cup, a tightening nut, a clamping ball, and a slip-resistant gasket. The gasket is made of TPU 95A and serves to create friction between the contact surfaces of the coupling in order to position and fix the lamp in the desired direction. The seal is made with a 2-3 mm outer "brim" that is not removed but will have a functional role as a position limiter during assembly. The threaded cup of the coupling is made with walls that are as thick as possible, almost 100%, to be as durable as possible. The same applies to the nut and ball. We used 3 connectors made of 100x8 mm metal bar, which are tightly fixed in the fixing holes of the coupling elements. PLEASE NOTE THAT IF YOU USE "PLA," THESE HOLES MAY BE TOO WIDE BECAUSE WE TOOK INTO ACCOUNT THE CONTRACTION OF THE MATERIAL DURING DESIGN AND USED "PETG" FOR PRINTING.

4.  ATTENTION! For parts with threads, use a 12 mm layer for printing, otherwise the thread quality will be poor. I used the "variable layer height" setting in Orca Slicer, which optimizes the layer thickness according to the details of the part.

5.  The lamp is attached to the articulated arm at the top with a corner bracket that is 100% solid for strength. I think plastic rods could be used to connect the ball joints because they are sturdy. I had a piece of metal rod and used it for this project.

6.  The mounting base for the desk top was printed as shown in the attachments I uploaded. I printed it this way to ensure maximum rigidity and durability over time, but I had to sand down the support that remained attached to the ball. But everything was fine. The mounting opening is 27 mm because the thickness of my tabletop is 26 mm. Here you can modify the dimensions in the project or adapt a spacer.

7. We made a hexagon for threading on the base tightening screw. We got the dimensions wrong, as they were not standard, so we printed another tool to help with the threading. Here you can intervene and make the right dimensions directly in the project.  

8. The lampshade has a recess into which the ceramic socket is inserted, and the bulb is mounted in the socket. It has two protrusions to prevent the socket from rotating when the bulb is screwed in, but this was not enough; there was still some play, so I had to stiffen the socket in the recess by forcing a toothpick into it. Here you can modify as you wish if you have a different type of socket. I didn't want to use up more material to remake the lampshade for such an insignificant detail.  

I like how it turned out. I could replace the light beam direction collar with a darker one, but I don't feel the need to. The bright red and intense white look great together. I needed a mobile lamp because I do various jobs at the office and didn't have the right light for them. Now I've solved that problem. I have attached the project in FreeCAD with all the elements of the lamp, and you can modify and adapt them to your needs or inspiration. It is not a very demanding project, but if you think it is useful, it is worth printing.