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Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 1
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 2
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 3
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 4
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 5
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 6
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 7
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 8
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 9
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 10
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Image 11
Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Thumbnail 8
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Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs 3D Printer File Thumbnail 11

Anderson Powerpole Fuse Block w LEDs

Nikdfish avatarNikdfish

February 8, 2026

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Description

This is a variation on my earlier Anderson Powerpole fuse block in that this version has provision for adding LEDs that light if the fuse is bad or missing when the circuit load is connected.  Another difference is provision for a "pigtail" to make the connection to the power source rather than occupying a fuse slot.

This sample models included are configured for 3, 4, 5 and 6 circuits and use of 5mm LEDs.  The Fusion 360 source is parameterized to permit easy user specification of circuit count and LED size.

The openings for the powerpole contact pairs have "ribs" for retension of the pairs.  They fit in the recesses of the shell sides.  There is also a hole in the center of the position to allow use of a 2mm pin or length of 1.75 filament for retension of the pairs.    Pairs are most easily inserted by staggering the black slightly forward of the red.  Insert until the black recess meets the rib while also advancing the red until inside the opening.  With the black seated, use firm presssure on the red until it also seats.

The design uses uninsulated 1/4" crimped female spade connectors as the fuse contacts.  The spacing is for standard bladed fuses, not mini's.   Depending on the connector used, you will probably want to use a bit of thick CA glue, or hot glue,  at the exposed end of the spade connectors to help avoid pulling the contact free when changing fuses.   Be careful not to contaminate the actual contact surfaces of the connectors.  A bit of CA or hot glue to secure the LEDs in place is a good idea.

In my assembly I first added current limiting resistors to the LED anode.  Once soldered & excess trimmed I used a short piece of heat shrink tubing to prevent unintended contact.  See the pics for details. The anode (+) lead gets soldered to the + buss or feed side of the fuse.   The cathode lead gets soldered to the fuse's output connector (that feeds the lead to the red powerpole) for that circuit.

The red powerpole is fed by the fuse ouput.  The black powerpole gets attached to the - buss.  You can use your choice for buss material.  Bare copper 12awg is a possibility as is a copper bar or cut strip of heavy copper sheet.

The lid is for covering the bottom of the block once complete.  A bit of CA glue can be used to secure it.

Fusion 360 source and .STEP files are included as well as .STL files

 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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