February 11, 2026
Description
3D prints are not always fully water‑tight. This enclosure has not been submersion‑tested.
Use at your own risk.
9× M2 × 14 mm screws
9× M2 nuts (standard, non‑locking)
2× M3 × 15 mm screws
Antenna tube
1/8" weather‑stripping foam with adhesive backing
Superglue
Material: PETG (recommended)
Top/Bottom Layers: 8
Walls/Perimeters: 3–4 loops
Infill: 30%
LED Lens: Print with transparent filament 100% infill
Fitment: Parts are designed tight to help reduce water ingress
Use drill bits to clean out any print artifacts:
3 mm holes: 7/32" drill bit
M2 holes: 3/16" drill bit
Lens opening: 11/64" drill bit (Most likely required for correct fitment)
Antenna tube hole: 7/32" (or match your specific antenna tube size)
Apply adhesive foam to the top side of the enclosure.
Use a soldering iron to melt a hole into the foam for the LED lens—be careful not to melt the plastic underneath.
Apply super glue around the inside perimeter of the lens opening.
Press the transparent lens into the top‑cover opening until fully seated and flush with the top.
Use an M2 screw from the top to draw each nut into its slot on the bottom half of the enclosure.
Place small strips of weather‑strip foam inside both the top and bottom cable‑entry channels.
When the enclosure is closed, the foam will compress around the cable, improving the seal.
Optional: Add a small bead of silicone sealant inside the main enclosure channel for increased water resistance.
Do NOT apply silicone inside the wire‑entry holes—the foam alone should be sufficient for sealing those.
Slide the enclosure over the two screw pins on the front X‑Maxx rails.
Make sure the cable of the OTA exits toward the rear of the X‑Maxx.
Secure the enclosure using the two M3 × 15 mm screws.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
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