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Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Image 1
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Image 2
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Image 3
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Image 4
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Image 5
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE clamp replacement JAW (300mm)

arscreo avatararscreo

February 12, 2026

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Description

Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ / PARKSIDE Clamp replacement JAW

You clamped something too hard, didn't you.
... too hard for your OLD CLAMP! Because this one is (probably) much stronger!

Replacement for broken Lidl POWERFIX Profi+ clamp jaw (300mm, will also fit PARKSIDE brand clamps that are identical in build to this one). This part re-uses M6 original nut and bolt (or any other M6, really).

The original red soft-jaws (and printable alternatives) will also fit this jaw.

The jaw can be installed both ways, to clamp things together or to reverse-clamp aka. spread, if you insert it on the other end of the metal rail.

WARNING! The object orientation is already the intended printing orientation for maximum clamping strenght. This means that supports (ideally, tree support from baseplate only) will be REQUIRED!

PRINT INSTRUCTIONS

enable tree support, from buildplate only
use minimum 5 walls, 15% infill (cross hatch/gyroid), but ideally more infill. 

Use PETG or other functional high stress filaments if possible.

POST PROCESSING

Due to tree support reaching into the hole for the metal clamp rail, you will have to knock it out. I used a woodworking chisel, but any thin, hard object you can jam in there to clean up will work. With a chisel it took me less than 10 seconds to clean out the hole for the rail.

For the circular support for the M6 hole I stuck a pair of spread, pointy plyers in and simply turned - it came off very quick.

Finally, insert the metal rail (which side depends on wether you want to clamp together or spread) and the M6 nut & bolt.

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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