February 10, 2026
Description
Tired of the IW-RS424-07 being way too loud, even though your build isn't generating that much heat? This one's for you!
Print laying flat with the face having all 4 ears against the build plate. You'll need to use supports to allow the upper ears to print. Luckily, removing the supports isn't too onerous when using a razor blade. Simply slide the blade in between the support and the ear, then rock it back and forth to cut away the support material that has made contact with the print surface. Once you've done that, use something like a screw driver or spudger to push the block of support material out.
See the photo for an assembled fan. I've assembled it with the model screwed to the intake side. It should work either way and I'm not sure if there's any advantage to changing orientations.
Remove the fan sleds from the existing fans being careful to unclip the plug retention bar, then remove the plug, then refit the retention bar so you don't lose it.
Butt this print up against a Noctua NF-A8 12v PWM fan such that the slimmer ears make contact with the bottom edge of the fan.
Screw this print to the fan using only the bottom two holes. To achieve this, affix the screw from the fan into the print. You should be able to hold a screw between the fan ears then use a long, thin screw driver to tighten it through the outer hole of the fan.
Fit the original InWin fan sleds to the assembly, feeding the cable up and out through the cable retention clamp such that it comes out facing directly upwards.
Slot back into the server chassis.
The connector will no longer work as it's a standard 4 pin PWM connector vs InWin's 6 pin connector. You'll have to route the wire along the tops of the fans and out to the motherboard (using an extension cable). Connecting to the motherboard header with a Y splitter so you can still connect up the backplane seems to work fine.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike