June 8, 2026
Description
Welcome to CHAMv3 Split Edition!
I am extremely humbled by the amount of people who have downloaded CHAMv3 and posted their makes! I owe any success to you all, and I hope the CHAMELEON project makes custom arcade sticks more accessible for everybody!
As always, feel free to drop requests or suggestions in the comments! And, if you would like to support my work, please visit my Ko-fi! - RAF
Any provided OnShape links are to my working documents, are the most updated version of the project, and may differ from the files uploaded here.
May make variants with different locations for the Neutrik and/or AUX buttons
Will make updates to the Assembly Guide for clarity/accuracy.
May make a 65mm tall version
Art side panels coming soon...
JUN 2026 - Magnetic Version Revision 1.
All changes from the standard rev 1 implemented on this model
Revised bottom panel to minimize the empty space
(still testing, but the files are up early)
MAY 2026 - Standard Model Revision 1.
Increased the fillet of the wrist rest from 10 to 12 mm
Improved the AUX Button hole design
Reduced the countersink chamfer for the M6 to match the bolt head
Revised Neutrik cutout to match the original CHAMv3 cutout
Changed the design of the inner M4 joining features to work with furniture bolts
Increase in depth to the shadowline
Compatibility with acrylic side panels
SPLIT EDITION. Introducing CHAMELEON v3 Split Edition (CHAMv3 SE)! This is extremely similar to CHAMv3, but with completely rounded corners, increased modularity, and better tolerances. I found that printing CHAMv3 in certain filaments (like PETG) would result in too much shrinkage. Using the SHIMs, you can compensate for the shrinkage and have a perfect fit!. Alignment of the parts will necessarily be a bit finicky, though.
CHAMv3 PANELS COMPATIBILITY. CHAMv3 SE uses all of the same panels as the non-SE case. Please click HERE for the CHAMv3 Button Panels Printables page!
MAGNETIC VARIANT. The magnetic version of the case utilizes these 8x3 mm magnets from Amazon. The true height of these magnets is actually 2.7mm (not 3mm) and I designed the slots accordingly. Use super glue gel to join x8 to the case and x4 per bottom panel. Let the glue fully cure before putting them under load.
**This reduces the BOM by x8 M4 HSIs and x8 M4x16 countersunk bolts. All other instructions for the magnetic variants are the same, and they are still compatible with regular OPENJOINT and iFRAME.
WARNING: The completed build takes ~1kg of filament! Ensure your printer & slicer are well-tuned before attempting this project!
FRONT, BACK, and SIDE:
4 Walls / 20-30% Cubic Infill / No Supports / Brim Recommended
Tested in PLA and PETG
If using a brim, post-process with deburring tool
OPENJOINTs and iFRAME:
5 Walls / 50% Cubic Infill / No Supports / Brim Recommended
Tested in PLA and PETG
Due to the OPENJOINT being long and somewhat thin, warping is likely – a brim helps alleviate this (post-process with deburring tool)
The long, flat side should face the build plate so that any potential warping of the part does not affect the final dimensions of the enclosure
BUTTON PANELS (located HERE):
4 Walls / 30% Cubic Infill / No Supports
PLA preferred over PETG for rigidity (and prettier colors)
The exterior face of the panels should face the build plate.
M6 Hardware (I use these):
x2 M6x50 for iFRAME
x4 M6x45 Countersunk Screws
x4 M6x35 Countersunk Screws
x4 M6x30 Countersunk Screws
x12 M6 Nuts and Washers (+2 for iFRAME)
M4 Hardware:
x12 M4x16 Furniture Bolts (for Sides and button panels)
x8 M4x16 Countersunk Screws (for bottom panels)
x8 M4x20 Countersunk Screws (for joining features)
M3 Hardware (Optional):
x4 M3 Heat Set Inserts (+2 if using for Neutrik)
x4 M3x6 Screws for PCB (+2 if using for Neutrik)
Controller Hardware:
Arcade Stick PCB - RP2040 Advanced Breakout Board or Brook
Arcade Stick Buttons and/or Joystick
Neutrik NAUSB (or similar)
Soldering Iron
For installing HSIs
Deburring Tool
To clean up the sharp edges from using a brim
PLAN & PRINT
- Decide what panel layout you would like to use. This will determine whether you can attach the iFRAME.
- The iFRAME is incompatible with notched panel layouts that have a center 30mm button.
- If in doubt, print x2 OPENJOINTs.
- After finalizing your decision, print out all of the parts.
INSTALL BODY HEAT SET INSERTS (HSIs)
- HSIs are installed via soldering iron – this requires a steady hand. Install HSIs as straight as possible into the hole.
- Recommend watching some YouTube videos on HSI installation if this is your first time. I like to slowly insert until the final 1-2mm, then I use a flat metal object to push it flush with the hole and allow it to cool.
- As a general rule: countersunk holes are not meant for HSIs.
- All countersunk holes are for screws, and will be referred to as “screw holes”.
- The body requires x20 M4 HSIs in total.
- Each half of the body requires x8 M4 HSIs that align with the screw holes in the upper and lower panels.
INSTALL OPENJOINT HSIs
- The joint requires x8 M4 HSIs in total.
- Each OPENJOINT requires x4 M4 HSIs that align with the screw holes in BODY_L and BODY_R.
- There are 4 hexagonal holes to accommodate the use of a longer screw for the upper and lower panels – do not install HSIs into these!
(OPTIONAL) INSTALL M3 HSIs
- x2 M3 HSIs install into the Neutrik mount in BODY_L.
- Some use nuts/bolts, but I like to use HSIs – whatever you prefer.
- x4 M3 HSIs install into a PCB mount on the upper or lower panels.
- There are several options—use the mount that works best for your layout.
- Honestly, I don't even install these. I snip a bit of toothpick flush to the top of the mount and use a self-tapping screw.
ATTACH SIDES TO FRONT AND BACK PARTS
- (Recommended) Add 0.2mm or 0.4mm SHIMs in between the SIDE and FRONT/BACK part. This can be done after the build is completed, but it's much easier to do in this step.
- Fasten x4 M4 furniture bolts through the FRONT/BACK and into the SIDE. Make sure the parts are aligned.
- Then, fasten x4 M6x35 bolts through the SIDE with nuts and bolts.
JOIN iFRAME AND BODY HALVES
- if using the iFRAME, insert the M6x50 bolts through the OPENJOINTs into the iFRAME and fasten to the nut and washer.
- Insert the assembled joint into the assembled body halves. Align the outer screw holes, insert the appropriate length M6 bolts, and fasten with nuts and washers.
- Fasten x8 M4x20 countersunk screws through the body (in the panel rails) and into the OPENJOINTs.
- Ensure everything is square, and all bolts are fully tightened.
INSTALL PANELS AND CONTROLLER HARDWARE
- If you made it this far, then it's the home stretch!
- If the panels don't quite fit, you can adjust the sides with SHIMs.
- Install your controller hardware and wire everything up.
- Ensure all panel screws are fully tightened and you're good to go!
PLAY VIDEO GAMES!
Happy Printing! If you would like to support my work, please visit my Ko-fi!
RAF
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution
RAF
