Princess Leia lightsaber V2 - locking blade

This is a redesign of my Leia light saber, so this is V2.  Same filaments as V1. This version has a locking blade, and I will add optional files that includes a belt clip and a D-Ring. 

Again, I used some items not 3d printed: twelve M3x8 (note – M3x6 used in V1) screws and mini flashlight.  

 The emitter still has a main collar with support prongs, but assembly is a little different since I added a rotation ring to release the blade.  The prongs are still tapered so the round plates must be assembled in order. However, in V2 the top ring (Ring 1) is the ring with the prongs. 

When printing, the collar and the two flaps are printed in place.  This allows the flaps to rotate.  You will have to push on the flaps after printing to release them.

On the print plate each round plate is numbered (Emitter Ring 1-4), and they are printed with the upper surface facing down on the print plate.  Be sure to orient the round plates when sliding them onto the prongs or they will not have the correct spacing.  These fit tightly which would imply they do not need any glue, but after final assembly I suggest a small spot on glue on several places to hole them in place. 

The prongs fit into the top of the emitter collar. Again, a small touch of glue is required. Next, slide the rotation ring onto the collar – note the rotation ring has two small tabs to position into the collar for locking the flaps closed. 

The rotation ring should be able to rotate about 30 degrees only.  Additionally, the rotation ring should fit fairly tight but should be able to rotate.  

 Once the rotation ring is attached, you can now screw on the fwd section.  Then slide the forward ring onto the fwd section.

The forward section has two step levels.  This allows the forward ring to slide halfway up.  This is also a tight fit but I suggest a small touch of glue to secure it in place to keep it from rotating.  The Fwd to Mid ring is the interface between the two sections.  Slide it over the fwd section threads. The ring has two levels inside to allow it to interface between the fwd and middle sections. The fwd section will screw into the middle section.

The fwd to mid ring should fit tightly onto the middle section, but if it rotates then apply a touch of glue but do not let the glue touch the fwd section threads. Next insert the button box and the switch box ring with a touch of glue.  The switch box ring is split to allow it to slide over the middle section.  Now, slide the middle to aft ring onto the aft hilt. To keep it from rotating add a touch of glue but keep away from the aft hilt threads.  You can screw the aft hilt into the middle section here or wait until the end.

Before addressing the silver fins and plates, you should install the split hilt rings, both forward and aft.  The rings are split and should fit snugly into the two grooves. If they do not snap into place then some light sanding should alleviate the problem.  Once you are sure they will fit, add a small amount of glue making sure you do not get any in the grooves for the fins.  Once the glue is dry, you can glue the silver plates in place. 

With the hilt fins you have two options.  I prefer to use twelve M3x8 pan-head screws to attach the fins, but I have included fins that include the pan-head (photo included).

The pan-heads will be the same color as the fins and you will secure the fins with glue. I had issues printing the fins, but I addressed that in the V1 description so I will not repeat it here. 

For completeness, I have also included a folder with 3d-printed screws.  If you decide to use these then be very careful since any strong torque will break them.  

In the picture below, you may notice the belt knob and screw.  This is an option and I will upload additional files for that option.

I used a 3.5-inch mini-flashlight in the hilt to light up the extended blade.  I used the Hortsun flashlight from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9H7CPZM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1.  Similar flashlights are available but may have slots arranged in slightly different configurations. 

The assembly is straight forward and should be clear from the picture below.  The holder pieces fit around the aft end of the mini-flashlight and that is inserted into the aft end ring piece.  Screw the end-cap onto this assembly and then insert the light into the aft hilt.  The picture below shows the end-cap and D-ring, which is an option.  The original end-cap with no hole is included in the original files.

Once this is completed, you can insert the 5-section blade and screw the aft hilt into the middle section.

 This version is slightly larger than the previous (V1).  The main reason for V2 was to add a locking mechanism for the blade.  Once I completed this, I decided to add a belt knob and D-ring options for those who have asked for this on my previous light sabers.

Again, I will have uploaded the additional files for both of those options.