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Meshtastic RAK Mini Solar Panel Housing 3D Printer File Image 1
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Meshtastic RAK Mini Solar Panel Housing

dnL avatardnL

February 23, 2026

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Description

Meshtastic RAK Mini Solar Panel Housing

A compact, weather-resistant solar node housing for the RAKwireless WisBlock Mini (RAK4631 + RAK19003) with a 3000mAh LiPo and external antenna support.


🔆 Description

This housing mounts directly to a standard 5V security-style solar panel (50mm mounting hole spacing) and provides a fully self-contained, solar-powered Meshtastic node using the RAKwireless WisBlock Mini platform.

The enclosure is designed for permanent outdoor deployment as a router or repeater — set it, seal it, and forget it. It accommodates the RAK Mini (RAK4631 core + RAK19003 base) with the Bluetooth patch antenna routed and tucked inside, a 3000mAh LiPo battery, and an optional external 5dBi SMA antenna for extended range.

Fits:

  • RAKwireless WisBlock Mini (RAK4631 + RAK19003 base)

  • Bluetooth patch antenna (internal, affixed to case wall)

  • 3000mAh LiPo battery

  • Optional external SMA antenna (5dBi)

  • 50mm spaced mounting holes to match included solar panel hardware


🛒 Parts List & Estimated Costs

⚠ Prices are approximate and subject to change. Check Amazon links for current pricing.

Item

Link

Est. Cost

RAKwireless WisBlock Mini Starter Kit (RAK19003 + RAK4631)

Amazon

~$35

Zivif 10W 5V Solar Panel (IP66, 50mm mount)

Amazon

~$18

MakerFocus 3000mAh 3.7V LiPo Battery (4-pack, use 1)

Amazon

~$18 (~$4.50/ea)

5dBi 915MHz SMA Antenna 2-Pack (Optional)

Amazon

~$10

JST PHR-2 (2.0mm pitch) male connectors (pack)

Amazon/AliExpress

~$7

M3×8mm screws, qty 4 (lid)

Hardware/Amazon

~$1–5

M2.3×5mm screws, qty 3 (board mount)

Hardware/Amazon

~$1–5

Silicone sealant or equivalent

Hardware store

~$5–8

Heat shrink tubing or electrical tape

Hardware/Amazon

~$5

Estimated Base Build Cost: ~$90–100 With Optional 5dBi Antenna: ~$100–110

Note: The 4-pack battery and 2-pack antenna give you spares for additional builds!


🧰 Tools Required

  • Soldering iron + solder

  • Wire strippers

  • Heat gun or lighter (for heat shrink)

  • Small Phillips or flathead screwdriver

  • Tap for M3 threads (recommended — or use screws to self-tap carefully)


🖨 Print Settings

Print in ASA for UV resistance and outdoor durability. PLA will warp and degrade in direct sun — PETG is a backup but ASA is strongly preferred.

Recommended Settings:

  • Layer height: 0.2mm

  • Perimeters: 4

  • Overlap: 40%

  • Seam: Staggered/random

  • Infill: 20–40%


🔧 Assembly Instructions

⚙ Before You Start

Update your firmware first! Before closing everything up, make sure your RAK Mini is running the latest Meshtastic firmware, boots correctly, and connects to the app. If this node will be mounted somewhere hard to reach, this is also a great time to configure remote admin keys in the Meshtastic app so you can manage it without physical access.


Step 1 — Mount to Solar Panel

Use the hardware included with the solar panel to mount the housing to the panel using the 50mm spaced mounting holes. Orient the panel for optimal sun exposure at your latitude.

Step 2 — Mount the RAK Mini

Secure the RAK mini baseboard into the housing using 3× M2.3×5mm screws. The board should sit snugly in the printed standoffs.


Step 3 — Bluetooth Patch Antenna

Affix the Bluetooth patch antenna to the inside wall of the housing using a small dab of silicone or double-sided tape. Route the IPEX cable neatly and connect it to the BLE U.FL connector on the RAK4631 core module.

(See polarity/connection diagram — ensure you're connecting to the BLE port, not LoRa.)


Step 4 — Swap the Battery Connector

The LiPo battery ships with a JST ZHR-2 (1.5mm pitch) connector — this needs to be swapped to a JST PHR-2 (2.0mm pitch) to match the RAK19003 battery port.

⚠ Never cut both wires at the same time — you will short the battery!

  1. Cut one wire at a time from the ZHR-2 connector.

  2. Save the ZHR-2 connector — you'll reuse it for the solar panel in Step 4.

  3. Solder the JST PHR-2 (2.0mm) male connector to the battery wires.

  4. Refer to the diagram to confirm correct polarity — double-check before connecting!

  5. Cover each solder joint with heat shrink tubing. Apply heat to shrink.


Step 5 — Solar Panel Wiring

  1. Cut the solar panel cable to an appropriate length to route inside the housing.

  2. Feed the cable through the designated hole in the housing.

  3. Solder the salvaged JST ZHR-2 (1.5mm pitch) connector (from Step 3) onto the solar panel output wires, matching polarity to the diagram.

  4. Apply silicone sealant around the wire where it passes through the housing hole — pull the wire snug to squish the silicone into the gap.

  5. Apply an additional bead of silicone on the inside of the housing around the cable entry point for extra weatherproofing.

  6. Allow to cure per the sealant instructions before continuing.


Step 6 — External Antenna (Optional but Recommended)

  1. Apply a generous amount of silicone inside the hex SMA mount in the housing.

  2. Press the SMA connector firmly into the hex mount, squishing silicone out to fill gaps.

  3. Allow to partially cure, then connect the IPEX-to-SMA pigtail from the RAK4631's LoRa U.FL port to the SMA connector inside the case.

  4. Thread the 5dBi antenna onto the exterior SMA connector.


Step 7 — Test Before Sealing

Before closing the lid:

  • Connect the battery (JST PHR-2) to the RAK19003 battery port

  • Connect the solar panel (JST ZHR-2) to the RAK19003 solar port

  • Power on and confirm the node appears in the Meshtastic app

  • Test solar panel output (verify charging indicator behavior)

  • Verify your configuration, channel settings, and role (Router/Repeater recommended for fixed solar nodes)

  • Test-fit lid — tolerances are tight, especially with the battery and wiring. Some cable management finagling is expected.

💡 Tip: It's a good idea to tap the M3 lid screw holes before final assembly — you can use the M3×8mm screws themselves to cut threads on the first pass, then back out before sealing.


Step 8 — Final Seal

  1. Run a continuous bead of silicone around the perimeter edge of the housing.

  2. Carefully set the lid and press down evenly.

  3. Insert the 4× M3×8mm screws and tighten — do not overtighten, you just want to compress the silicone bead evenly.

  4. Wipe away any silicone squeeze-out and allow to fully cure (typically 24 hours).


💧 Waterproofing Alternatives to Silicone

If you don't have standard silicone sealant on hand, the following work well as substitutes:

  • Permatex RTV Silicone (auto parts stores) — excellent, flexible, UV resistant

  • Marine-grade sealant (3M 4200 or 5200) — overkill but bombproof

  • Clear urethane sealant — good flexibility and adhesion

  • Hot glue — not weatherproof long-term, emergency use only

  • Sugru — moldable silicone rubber, works great for cable entry points


📝 Notes & Tips

  • The RAK19003's built-in solar charge controller is a simple linear charger (max ~350mA input) — the 10W Zivif panel will typically deliver well above that in good sun, but the charge rate is limited by the board. This is normal.

  • A 3000mAh battery with a solar top-off is generally sufficient for 24/7 router operation in most US climates with decent sun exposure.

  • If deploying in a very shaded location, consider a larger battery or a USB-powered charge controller setup.

  • Staggered seams in your print settings help prevent a single weak layer line from running around the perimeter of the lid seal.

  • ASA can be finicky to print — an enclosure or draft shield is recommended to prevent warping and delamination.


Happy meshing! 📡 If you build this, drop a photo in the makes — would love to see where these end up.

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

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