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Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Image 1
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Image 2
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Image 3
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Image 4
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Image 5
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

Creality K1/K1C Back/Rear Betweener with Gap Fill

shadowandy avatarshadowandy

March 8, 2026

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Description

I've been printing more ASA and ABS, and lately venturing into PC. On top of maintaining chamber temperature, having a good seal to reduce VOC gas escaping into the printing room is important.

The Problem

The rear betweener has a gap for the hot-end cable and Bowden tube and it doesn't really match up with the edge of the Creality K1/K1C lid, working against the idea of sealing in heat and VOC. 

The Solution

It is actually quite straight-forward,

  • Thicken the rear betweener so that it matches up with the edges of the Creality K1/K1C lid

  • Reduce the size of the gap for the Bowden tube and smooth the edges so that it doesn't wear out the exterior of the Bowden tube when it shifts (slightly) during prints

  • Seal the portion blocked by the hot-end cable

However, modelling it in TinkerCad is actually more complex.

I did it so that you don't have to.

How I printed it

  • Material: ASA

  • Perimeters: 3

  • Top and bottom layers: 3

  • Fill: 20% Gyroid

  • Supports: Yes. Tree (manual) - Paint the overhanging part for the hot-end cable

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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