June 26, 2026
Description
Update — Rev3: PWM Fan Control via Leviathan
The CW2 cover fan can now be controlled via Klipper instead of running at full speed all the time.
What changed: Disconnect the fan's negative (-) wire from Nitehawk GND and route it through a single 26-28 AWG silicone wire along the umbilical to a spare fan port on your mainboard (e.g. Leviathan V1.3 FAN1, pin PB3). The positive (+) wire stays on Nitehawk as before. That's it — one wire added.
If you're using the Spine Umbilical System, the extra wire clips neatly alongside the umbilical cable using the included spine clips — no zip ties needed.
Why: With software control you can adjust fan speed for quieter operation (60% is plenty for most situations), automatically boost to 100% when the board gets hot, and turn it off completely when needed.
Fan recommendation updated: Sunon 4010 instead of Noctua NF-A4x10. The Sunon's mounting holes are designed for M4, but by countersinking the holes slightly and using M3 flat head screws, the screw heads sit below the fan surface, keeping the overall thickness to a minimum. This eliminates any Z belt interference even at the extreme X-max / Y-min toolhead position. The higher RPM noise is no longer an issue since you can run it at 60% via PWM.
Config and macros (including auto temperature monitoring) are included in the download files.
Edited 03-13-2026
⚠ Important Note — Noctua vs. Wathai
After testing, I discovered that the Noctua NF-A4x10, while significantly quieter, is thick enough to interfere with the Z belt of the front-right motor — and the integrated fan guard makes this even worse. If your geometry is similar, use the Wathai 4010 variant (Rev2) instead. It's louder, but it clears the belt cleanly, and honestly it looks better too. 🙂
For those comfortable with soldering, swapping between the two fans takes 10–20 minutes — so it's not a big deal if you want to try the Noctua first and switch later.
Key Features
Dual Fan Compatibility (Rev2): Supports both the Noctua NF-A4x10 24V and the Wathai 4010 — choose based on your Z belt clearance.
Integrated Fan Guard: Includes a swirl grill for blade protection (Noctua only — not needed for Wathai).
Wiring: Always-on cooling by tapping directly into the 24V lines from the ChaoticLab Tap V2.
Installation Steps
Print Components: Print the cover and, if using the Noctua, the fan guard as well. Use ASA or ABS to ensure proper heat resistance within the printer chamber.
Mount the Fan: Place the fan onto the CW2 cover. For Noctua: secure both the fan and the swirl guard using four M3x16mm FHCS (Flat Head) screws. For Wathai: secure the fan directly — no guard needed.
Position the Cover: Attach the cover (with the mounted fan) to the toolhead first. This allows you to determine the wire length needed to reach the Tap V2 power source before splicing. (Alternatively, you can make a new set of wires.)
Wire for 24V: Splice the fan's + and − wires directly into the 24V power lines feeding your ChaoticLab Tap V2 (Red + / Black −). For Noctua: Yellow (+) and Black (−). The Green (RPM) and Blue (PWM) wires are not used.
Insulate & Route: Use Kapton tape or heat-shrink tubing to secure and insulate your splices. Route the wires through the cover's side channel, ensuring they stay clear of the toolhead PCB.
Final Fit: Ensure all wires are tucked neatly and finish securing the assembly to the Clockwork 2 unit.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution
7
danec
